Made in USA

The idea started out. I have a four-year-old and a one-year-old, but when I had my first baby, I remember she would just be like laying on my chest or in my arms or on my lap and you know, I used to buy like really kind of crappy fast-fashion clothes like I just like grew up shopping at like the $5 store which I loved and I remember being like, "Oh, I really want to buy at least like good t-shirts so that her little face and her little mouth that she sleeps on me is like on something that I can feel good about her like laying on." So then I set out for like a year and a half to try to find a t-shirt that I could feel good about. A t-shirt that looks good, that feels good, that is good for the environment and then ideally the last layer was like good labor practices. Sarah Gonzalez usually covers economics. I mean, I don't cover fashion. She's a reporter and host of the NPR podcast Planet Money. We're an economics podcast and we're like fun and narrative. So Sarah found herself in a pickle that a lot of us might relate to. Which is this eternal question. How do we buy clothing ethically? Is that even possible? I mean, it's so hard to be a good shopper, you know, and then you have like children. They grow out of things and so you have to buy them more things. I'm like a bad consumer. Like where should I buy this t-shirt that I can feel good about? And then I did an interview with a remarkable woman for name is Aisha Barron-Blatte. She is the CEO of this group called Remake. Their whole thing is like we want to like remake the fashion industry. I was asking her like you tell me like where do you shop? Like you've dedicated your life to this. So like what do you do? You know there are certain companies that I like very much but for the most part for the last decade I've bought very little. Like you come see my closet and there's you know six classic pieces. I do a little rental, a little vintage. Wait wait wait wait. You have like six pieces of clothes in your closet? Yeah, yeah six dresses. That's it. So she has six pieces of clothing that she like owns and I was like oh my gosh. It's kind of like the moment when I was like what? And she like rents. She rents clothes and does like that kind of thing and thrifts and like swaps with her friends. I just I know too much to want to have very much from this industry. I don't think she was like preaching like this is what you should do or that even she is the best consumer ever. I think the short answer was basically you cannot buy your way out of this problem of bad labor conditions, bad for the environment. Like buying clothes is not going to solve the problem. Not even if those clothes were made in the USA. Who doesn't like the idea of things being made in America? I mean not for like patriotic reasons just like made in the USA has to be like the first step. Like we're getting to better labor conditions and better for the environment. And she was like why would you think that? Like where did you get that from? And I was like I don't know like isn't that like the goal is made in the USA. Made in the USA is not the bastion of virtue that Sarah imagined it was. And that I imagined it was honestly. But I had no idea what the garment industry in the United States actually looks like. I remember being like where are the garment factories? Like where do you wait? Like I've never seen one. I've never been like oh look they're making clothes there. Like ever I used to live in New York City. I never like stumbled upon these things in any real way. And most of them are like tiny, tiny operations. Like 76% of our garment factories in the US have less than 10 workers. Because they're like so hidden. You can't even you don't even know where they are. Like I went to some garment factories. And I would show up and I would be like this is this is like a house on a street with all the other houses. But technically it's a garment factory. But it just you couldn't tell in New York it's like some unit on top of a restaurant. They're so small that they're not it's not like we may close here you know. So they exist but they're kind of like hidden. They're really really difficult to find online. Like really they're they're quite hidden. Sarah Gonzalez has pulled back the curtain on the US garment industry for an episode of Planet Money that I think is one of the best pieces of fashion journalism I have ever heard. I could not share it with you. I started working on it sitting out to like find a t-shirt I can feel good about. And then all of a sudden like the conversation was made in the USA made in the USA. And then I was like wait I don't know if this is the future we actually want. After the break. Hey there it's Robin from Pierre X and I'm so excited to tell you about radio topias newest show Amityvilleville. Alex Goldman host of HyperFix and former host of Reply All. Teams up with his close friend journalist and supernatural phenomena enthusiast Carolyn Thompson to review all 91 movies in the Amityville franchise. Inspired by the true story of the defaio murders in 1974 the Amityville horror became the second highest grossing movie when it came out in 1979. Inspiring books, documentaries and of course a sprawling and bizarre film franchise. Along the way some enterprising filmmakers realize you can't copyright the name Amityville which has led to a total of 91 movies in the franchise. Including titles like Amityville Elevator, Amityville Outhouse, Amityville Job Interview, even Amityville in Space. And yes these are all real movies. The show will feature recaps of all 91 movies in the order they were released. And there will also be special one-off episodes featuring interviews with the people involved in making of the films or even in the investigation of the alleged haunting at 112 Ocean Avenue in Amityville, New York. The show we've cinema, pop culture, true crime, the ghost hunter industrial complex and a couple of horror fans chopping it up. Don't miss it. Maria doesn't speak any English. Not a word she says. But she does know some like sizes. She knows sizes. She knows label, ticket, all words related to her job. Manager. The boss is a girl. It's a miss. Miss over here. Miss over there. She says. You got to call your boss is Mr. or Mrs. She says. And I'm like, this is all English Maria. Oh, Mr. Mrs. Maria is a garment worker in the US. One of not that many is left. She's originally from Boy of La Mexico. Sweet potato city she says. Proud. Notting her head and making a little diss to herself when she says it. Maria is only 73 years old. But she has the presence of both a much older, comforting grandma and somehow also like this easily-delighted kid. She has those little grandma sandals on and a little white flower tucked behind her ear. Whenever Maria sees a flower, she picks it up, puts it in her hair. Deseninha des de chiquita. Been doing this interior a little girl. Me da alegria. Una flor. It makes her happy, little flower in her hair. Me llena como despilita. Maria has been in the US almost 30 years and she has done the exact same job the entire time. Soy tremia dora. Tremia dora. She's a trimmer. O trimmy. Garment factory in Los Angeles. Esfatoria. Esfatoria. Half of what is left of the garment manufacturing industry in the US is in Los Angeles. Me me que es trimming. And when I ask Maria what a trimmer does in a US garment factory, Maria reaches for my shirt. Miraki en pieza. She tucks her hand under the bottom of my shirt, at the hem. The back of her warm fingers on my bare stomach, the way only a grandma can do. That was so cute. She taps all the places on my top where a piece of thread would be left behind when a hem or a seam or a stitch ends. The side of my stomach, at the side seam, my shoulder where a sleeve was sewn on, the back of my neck where the tag was sewn on. And when she's tapping me like this, it feels like something my grandma's sister would do actually, like the splicing. Y ahorita cuando me to casa así como medio como que. And when I tell Maria, she looks at me like, I understand. Maria's job is to cut off all the leftover thread. Si, costalele, ese es el turno. That's what a trimmer does all day, crouched over. Just snip, snip, snip, snip, snip, snip, sniping loose threads. And as we're talking, Maria notices a little spot at the hem of my shirt where a tiny piece of thread was leftover. Like half a centimeter. And she goes, I guess the trimmer working on this was in a rush. But then again, they're all in a rush. The shirt I'm wearing this day with Maria, made in Vietnam. My pants, made in Bangladesh. My bra, made in China. But the clothes that Maria works on are made in the US, in Los Angeles, California. A lot of people love the idea of making things like clothes in America. One of the Trump administration's goals is to bring manufacturing in general back to the US. But what people might picture when they think of a "made in America" future might be different from the "made in America" we have now. When you start out as a garment worker, you often start out as a trimmer, like my dear. When you might get trained on a sewing machine, but my dear never moved on to a machine. She likes being a trimmer, but really, she just likes having a job. She's like every job she's ever had, she says. When she first started out trimming, she was not the best. She'd nick the clothes, leave a little hole, but she'd show up with a little needle and thread set. So real quick, you couldn't even tell the whole was there, she says. And her boss loved that she could patch things up, actually. So much intelligence, he told her. But what the garment industry really prices is speed. Speed more than anything else. And in the beginning, Maria was not so fast. She didn't know how to move the scissors, she said. So she'd do like 100 pieces of clothing a day. The boss would be like, "Friend, friend, faster, faster." And she did get fast. She would be like, "Yeah, I was going to do 600 pieces, 700 pieces, 800 pieces." So when you first started, you were doing like 100 pieces a day and now you're 700, 800 pieces. 800 pieces a day is a lot. It's a lot. Ok, me de compré, est stem. I brought my dear garment that was made in the US so we could talk about the work that goes into it. It's a purple sports bra from a fancy, pricey American brand. A nice thick cardboard tag says made in the USA and sold for $62. And it's good quality. Definitely, you can feel it in the fabric. But all money, as he is, is the amount of loose threads that she would need to trim on a piece like this. "No tiene mucho ino." There's not much he says. "Esa es muy bueno para la estremiedora porque rápida sale." "Is he wanting something like this? This is an easy job for you." "Nosotros en el crimil llamamos esto es papita para nosotros porque." "Rapita?" Oh, this is like potato chips. Like a piece of cake, you know? You can really make money doing the trimming on a bra like this, she says. "Pues si quieres ganar dinero tienes que hacerlo rápido." "If you want to earn money, you have to do it fast." "Why? ¿Por qué?" "Yo estoy por pieza?" "Why does she have to work fast to get money?" "Maria gets paid by the piece." Meaning, the faster she works, the more pieces she does, the more money she makes. It's called "peace, rate, pay" and it is very common in this industry. "This is why Maria likes a nice simple garment." "Jeans?" "No, you don't like working on jeans." "No, it's a. A button up shirt?" Oh, the worst. "The buttons, si te costaba mucho porque hay que trimiar el botón también." "The buttons, the buttons, take a while, you have to trim out the loose thread." "You don't make much money when there's buttons involved." "Woo, the question." "Left over, button thread just really slows you down. You get paid by the quantity you produce, right? The number of garments you get through." "The pay?" Well, when Maria started out as a trimmer in 1994, the pay was. "Avía de tres centavos, de cuatro centavos, de tres centavos, three cents, to five cents." "Three to five cents per piece." That's the pay she started at. Maria would do a hundred pieces a day, make five dollars and she'd walk out happy. She says, "Feeling great about her five dollars a day." "Today?" "Aurita ya lo pagan a quince centavos y a diez y seis centavos." "Aurita, fifteen cents today." "Today, Maria makes fifteen to sixteen cents per piece." And that can be okay pay if she gets a nice, easy sports bra. But if she gets, I don't know, a jacket, a jacket with buttons, working as fast as you possibly can, sometimes you do not get close to making minimum wage. Many times in her career, Maria has taken bundles of garments home, stayed up to two, three in the morning, just trimming, trimming, trimming more and more pieces, trying to earn enough money to pay her bills. "Woo, me copeteada de trabajo, lo dormía toda la noche." "Like it's so weird that they're like, "Yes, sure, take the clothes, here, that's my big brand, like take the clothes home and do work on it at home." "I'm like, what if you get the clothes dirty at your house?" "Oh no, no, no, no, no, no." "She's like, oh no, no, no, you do not get the clothes dirty." And many workers who get paid by the piece will do this, their whole families will work on the clothes together. Now sometimes, when Maria gets a bundle of really time consuming garments, she will ask for more pay. Again, she doesn't speak English, but she makes gestures to the boss she says and gets by just fine. "I already want Mr. Ben, Ben, Ben." She'll be like, "Mr. come, come, come, look, look how much trimming this garment needs." "Okay, okay, did you say, "Sentavo, no, no." He'll be like, "Okay, you want an extra cent?" "No, two cents, she'll say." "Okay, okay, this is no problem." And she's gotten it. But that would get her like an extra $10 for the day. Now, piece-repey varies depending on what you're doing. The trimming is considered the finishing touches before a garment gets ironed and sent out to a store of brand. If the person on the iron in LA might get $0.50 for garment, it's more dangerous. The person who sewed on the sleeves did the bottom hem, maybe $0.12. "Well, actually, that's better. When I started an industry over 30 years ago, we laughed and called it a penny-a-pocket, because that's what they were paid for every pocket they would put on." In the U.S., in the U.S. Lin Bu-Radi is the head of the Department of Design and Merchandising at Oklahoma State University. Back in the '90s, Lin actually also helped figure out what garment workers working for U.S. brands would be paid. Like, she'd watch them on the assembly line sewing on a pocket, sewing on a seam. "Say you've got an 18-inch seam that you have to make. They pick up the two pieces, put it together, put it through the machine, cut the thread at the end and lay it down. 18-inch seam takes X amount of seconds to make. I would keep track of that cycle and write down the cycle, watching their movements, etc." So you're standing there with a stopwatch? Okay, she did that in 30 seconds. Oh, yeah. Now, 35 seconds. Yes, and I'm marking that down right in front. Yes, it was very awkward. You didn't do it all the time. You did it to set the piece rate and to set the cost of the garment. So your job was to determine how many cents to pay or to charge per piece? I gave the data to the people. I gave the data to the. We're blaming U.L. I'm not blaming you. I know. I feel so terrible now, but you know, this is just something that you're taught. This is one of the main ways the garment industry in the U.S. and globally has always made. Any's on the piece. This is a long-standing tradition, at least since the industrial revolution. Piece rate pay was meant to incentivize workers to work harder. So the people working harder and producing more would make more money than the people who were working slower. And everyone's got a fair system, right? But Lynn has some regrets about this now. And she says piece rate pay means workers often wreck their bodies working as fast as they can. When you sew, you have one foot on a pedal, and so your weight tends to be on your other leg. Do you think that for eight hours a day, 40 hours a week, perhaps, or more, that can cause issues? We spoke to workers who have gotten burned, scarred, need surgery on their shoulder. Doing the same arm repetitions every single day. And you do hundreds of these units. Okay, wait, let me show you. So this is my garment that I bought. Okay. I show Lynn the purple sports bra. There's like a little keyhole right here. Oh, that's nice. Yeah. Let me see the shoulders. When I show this garment to Maria, she could really only tell me about the part she does, the trimming. But Lynn can tell us how many people worked on a garment like this and how much they each got paid. Okay. So you've got a front and a back. You've got the band along the bottom and then you've got the piping pieces on the armhole and the neckline. It's a very basic bra. This is not a structured bra. There are no cups, no liner pads, no holes for the liners, no wired, nothing like that. And still, Lynn says, "It could have taken 13 different people to make it, each doing a different step." Just so the bra. I'm not talking about any of the prep work, like laying out the fabric, cutting out the fabric, bundling the pieces. Would like a generous estimate be like every single person who touched this piece got no more than 30 cents for what they did or 40 cents. 40 cents is probably too high. 40 cents is too high. Okay. So we'll go with 30 cents. Now, 30 cents times 13 people would mean that potentially, theoretically, workers were paid $3.90 to make this bra, which was selling for $62. Correct. And this is like made in America. but this is like as good as it. Gets. Yep. This is this is as good as it gets well in terms of People actually being paid. Yeah, basically as good as it gets in terms of pay Now some countries like Canada, Japan, Belgium actually do pay garment workers more than the US does But generally in countries that make most of our clothes Workers would make way way less than three dollars and 90 cents total to make a bra like this. Oh Penny's it could be 50 cents in other countries. So why don't they do it somewhere else? Is it because they want to be a brand that says we use American labor? It that's worth money. Absolutely. Do you think that your average consumer of this product thinks? Oh wait, that's what American labor is. It's like someone Getting paid 18 cents to 30 cents to work on this. No, absolutely not. I think we have the image of A well-run factory that's air conditioned where people get nice breaks and go home to their families at night And it's just not that I've seen worse factories in America than I have seen overseas Most of the garment factories left in the US over 76% of them are small operations with fewer than 10 workers You'd walk by some of these and never even know there was a garment factory there in New York City The factory could be on top of a restaurant in little Italy and Los Angeles It could be on a residential street looking like any other single story house on the block There aren't that many factories or that many domestic garment workers in 1990 there were like 900,000 apparel manufacturing jobs in the US today There are 82,000 the US lost most of its garment industry in the 90s when brands and retailers started sourcing more and more products So receives and paying other countries to make more and more clothes and when that happened the US kind of stopped investing in the factories that were left stopped innovating So walking into some of these factories today can feel like going back in time It's tiny, some contracted, overcrowded factories with these juky machines This is Aisha Baronblatt. Her work running a nonprofit called Remake has taken her inside garment factories all over the US and abroad Come look at the factories in Southay not just even China in Cambodia in Bangladesh Some of these are state-of-the-art facilities Innovative you know with robotics and AI and using clean technology We don't have that we have some not many the governments in a lot of the countries where our clothes are made today actually subsidize those state-of-the-art fancy factories and unless the US were to do the same Aisha says she cannot imagine that there would be the right incentives for anyone to invest in more US factories This is an aging workforce, you know who is going to do the skill development that's needed without investment in workforce without investment in R&D in technology in actual factory development and patience It's not as though these jobs are just going to come back Can I just say that these jobs are not going to be not gonna make iPhones in America and we're not gonna make a lot clothes in them We don't know how to like let's just put that out there Yeah, the US outsourced a lot of its garment making expertise a long time ago other countries got really good at Making clothes not just sewing clothes, but like the pattern making fitting making a bra And a simple sports bra like our purple bra like a legit structured support bra with cups in the whole thing I just as the US doesn't really know how to make those bras No, look in your closet and see where most of your bras come from Sri Lanka probably it's hard You know, it's a technical garment. I mean the wire the clasp the sizing Folded part different countries have become experts at different things one country might be really great at making cheap Pearl buttons for our clothes another great at working with silk the US is apparently not known for its silk work You really want to go to wear silk production originated for good silk work. So China, but there is a Garment manufacturing industry in the US, right? That's what my dad is in dreamy I got us to the mirror And if you're wondering why there is any industry left at all when clothes can be made cheaper sometimes even better abroad It hears why some US brands like to have factories nearby for things like prototyping and making samples They just want a few pieces right away Why haven't made all the way in China? And then there are clothes for the niche customer like Consumers who really want clothes that aren't Shipped from across the world because they really care about emissions for example Specialized clothes for people with physical disabilities the US makes a decent amount of that and here's another big reason Basically all of the clothes for the US military have to bylaw under the very amendment Be made in the US the fabric the fiber top to bottom made in the USA Because the US military doesn't ever want to have to rely on a particular country in case we ever like go to war with that country or something This is the part of the garment industry that the US government does prop up and There's a perception right that made in America must mean better labor conditions Maybe better pay good for the environment even why do you think that Sarah that's not true That's absolutely not true. I chose nonprofit does these reports where they basically Grade brands on labor issues like pay and worker well-being and environmental issues like the raw materials brands use and where their clothes get discarded There's this perception that somehow some paying more or if it's a luxury item then the workers are paid better And you know time and time again You know, they've been scandals with sweatshops in Italy and they've been high-end brands luxury brands There's math out there something like 20 cents for a $20 t-shirt But the same holds true for a $120 t-shirt a $20 t-shirt a $120 t-shirt a $120 t-shirt the workers likely got 20 cents to work on it either way as she says you generally cannot buy your way into better wages for workers There has been an effort in California where Maria and half of all US garment workers are to raise the pay But the thing about making clothes is it has historically gone Somewhere else where you can pay workers less that's after the break Hi, I'm Nicole Feltz the global fashion news and features director and co-host of Vogue's podcast the run through Each week on the show our listeners get an all-access pass to the world of Vogue with the latest fashion news and the most exciting voices in the industry On Tuesdays join me to hear interviews with influential leaders in the industry like Calvin Klein, Daniel Roseberry and Jonathan Anderson On Thursdays join head of editorial content at Vogue, Chloe Mal and head of editorial content at British Vogue, Chomanati As they explore style and culture through the lens of fashion with guests like Martha Stewart, Kamala Harris and Tracy Ellis Ross The run through with Vogue new episodes every Tuesday and Thursday wherever you get your podcasts So we know that Maria gets paid by the piece, but here's how they add it up Every day when Maria walks into work she gets bundles of clothes that need trimming sorted by size and Maria keeps track of the cut the style and the number of pieces in a notebook and then figures out her total pay at the end of the week And the mister or missus will do the same accounting on their end and sometimes their math might be $5-6 short and Maria will be like no no no check your math again Maria does feel like she has to fight for every dollar she gets working a regular average day where the garments she's working on is not so easy and not so hard Maria might do like 500 pieces at 15 cents a piece so 75 dollars a day Working full-time she could make $375 a week, $1,500 a month If Maria was making the minimum wage in California though she'd make $2,640 a month When you convert piece rate pay to hourly wages it can add up to much less than the minimum wage According to a department of labor survey of garment workers in southern California Some workers made as little as a dollar and 58 cents an hour and in California the way that Maria is getting paid by the piece is actually not legal It's wage theft and Maria knows it Maria is a member of a group called the garment worker center in Los Angeles The center and also Isha's nonprofit pushed for this law in California that prohibits piece rate pay In the garment industry it passed four years ago so now by law Maria is supposed to be getting paid hourly at minimum wage or better not by the piece But getting all the brands and factories to comply with the law is another story Sometimes garment workers are asked to clock in and clock out every day even though they are not paid by the hour factories do this to try to avoid being caught by state investigators. They'll even coach workers on what color the paycheck would be if they got a paycheck not cash so that they can be more believable to an employee investigators. Our Purple Sports Bra, the one we bought, we spoke to a worker who says they worked on those bras, paid by the piece. And the company that made it was actually fine for using factories in California that were committing wage theft and issuing fake checks. And listen, many brands have worked with factories that pay garment workers per piece. According to the Department of Labor, it's been contractors and manufacturers that make clothes for Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Lulu's, Dillards. So it's not just the, you know, bad fast fashion brands doing this. It's luxury brands. It's good American brands that boast about being made with US labor, like our sports bra. And if factories get wind, that maybe someone is poking around on how they're paying workers, there's this thing that can happen. The factory can close up, relocate, change their name to avoid having to back pay workers. Lynn, Lynn, who used to have the stopwatch timing workers sewing on seams, she says, she saw factories do this all the time. If they were caught doing anything and the government came in, they would say, sorry, that company no longer exists. We're this owner, we're, we're the new company now. But it would be the same owners. Of course. It's different name. Yeah. And how can they do that? Oh, it's all illegal. It is the very definition of a sweatshop, but you have to catch them at it. Yes, sweatshops. It's a term people toss out a lot, but the actual definition of a sweatshop is poor working conditions, low pay, long hours. And the problem with trying to make wages and conditions and hours better is that you can risk losing the industry altogether. For example, the lawn California that prohibits peace rate pay in the garment industry, the California Chamber of Commerce labeled it a job killer. People said that if California is the only state in the country that bans peace rate pay, factories and brands will just make clothes one state over where they can still pay workers by the piece. There has been a years long push to eliminate peace rate pay nationally, but I mean, then the work could just go to another country. These jobs have already moved from China to Bangladesh and Vietnam where the labor is cheaper. We did talk to a garment worker who has been paid hourly, not by the piece. I was in English like what you do for work. I wait a little bit. What do you do? Oh, what do you do? What do you do for work? This is Bacheco. She is a sewer in LA who is made clothes for the US military. Las camisas para los soldados. Ah, para los soldados. This is for the soldiers. Como el camouflage. But even getting paid minimum wage, Bacheco says there is pressure to do things fast. You give everything you can physically, she says, and mentally, because you have to do really good work. In some factories at least. And if you don't work fast, Bacheco says sometimes they can just take the work away from you. They might say, oh, there's actually not going to be a lot of work the next few days. We'll call you when there's more. And you get the message, she says, to work faster and X time. Bacheco says sometimes she actually made more money when she was paid by the piece. Now we are not using Bacheco's full name because she fears workplace retaliation. This is also why we're not using my DS full name or the names of their employers. But the garment worker center, which fights labor violations, says this kind of thing happens all the time. And Bacheco has a lot of regrets about investing so much of her adult life in this industry. She says she has nothing to show for her work. No savings, no career advancements. She feels broken by it. You've lost a lot of time. What person doesn't want to move up in work and life and have more, she says. Bacheco, Maria, they say this is not a job they would want for their loved ones. Like Bacheco's kids or Maria's grandkids who all graduated college. No, no, no, no, no. No, this is not for them. No, not this job for them. Maria says. Maria says she wants them to be something in life. I tell her you're something. Yeah, I'm something she says, but she raised her kids. They all ate and she's proud of herself. But she cannot imagine many Americans would want this job. No, she's like come on, you think they'd be couched over all day. She can actually barely contain herself at the thought. After doing that story, it still sticks with Sarah. I will never look at a shirt or bra, pair of pants and not see like, oh, 15 people probably worked on that. Like I never knew that it took that many people touched one garment in the United States. To this day, she cannot look at a piece of clothing without imagining all the many hands that touched it. It took 15 people to make a bra. It took 20 people to make a t-shirt. It took 35 people to make like a men's butt and a dress shirt. That's what I see. Of course, there's like, you know, the do-goodter factories. But for the most part, it doesn't matter how expensive the clothes is. If it costs, if it's a t-shirt that costs $120 or a t-shirt that costs $20, the workers who worked on both of those shirts likely got 20 cents to work on it either way. You know, it's like knowledge ruins everything. Take it away with the credit, Sarah. I'm Sarah Wonsanis. Today's show was edited by Marianne McEun and fact-checked by Sierra Huarez who also helped with research. It was produced by Willa Rubin with help from Emma Peasley and engineered by Robert Rodriguez. Alex Goldmark is our executive producer. Also super, super, extra special thanks to Shane Liu who really helped us understand why the garment industry exists in the US at all and what it looks like. This episode, I added music by Lelatone, Sasami Ashworth and Ray Royal, but I have not found a perfect example white t-shirt if you have any tips. Actually, if you want my humble suggestions for simple, relatively ethical, good white t-shirts, go to articlesofinterest.substac.com.