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Gracie & Sally Cohen on Pro Longboarding, Brutal Accidents, & Challenging Comebacks

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Gracie & Sally Cohen on Pro Longboarding, Brutal Accidents, & Challenging Comebacks

Sally Cohen’s journey from a competitive longboard surfer to a resilient, self-directed athlete and entrepreneur reveals the deep challenges and transformations inherent in pursuing a passion at a professional level. Growing up in a surf-centric environment with parents deeply involved in the sport, she developed a strong foundation in both surfing and the values of the ocean culture. She transitioned to longboarding for its accessibility and lower competition, allowing her to build a career without the intense pressure of shortboarding. However, her professional experience on the World Long Board tour was marked by burnout—caused by isolation, financial strain, toxic competition dynamics, and a lack of support. A life-changing injury, where she fell from a balcony and suffered a compound foot fracture and facial laceration, became a turning point. The recovery was long, painful, and emotionally taxing, requiring surgery, hospital care, and a year without teeth. During this time, social media became a lifeline, allowing her to build a loyal community of supporters who financially and emotionally rallied behind her. This shift enabled her to redefine her career: moving from competition-driven success to a lifestyle-based approach centered on authenticity, self-care, and autonomy. She co-founded Aokai Swim with her sister to create functional, stylish, and affordable surfwear, empowering women through confidence and access. Sally’s story underscores how adversity, when met with resilience and community, can transform personal struggle into a sustainable, impactful brand that values well-being over performance. Her journey exemplifies how athletes can reclaim control of their careers, prioritize mental health, and build meaningful, inclusive brands rooted in authenticity.

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So you looked like you were thriving. Yeah, but behind the scenes we were not. Not really now. Took one step on this beam because I wanted to be like you. Fell right through, hit the concrete, and broke my foot, like, destroyed my foot. They told me I was never going to surf again. I want to be known as a good surfer. I don't want to be known as like the girl who fell off a balcony. Today's guest is a professional long-border, who grew up on the North Shore of Alahoe, and has turned her passion for the ocean into professional career. She's competed on the WSL World Long Board tour, won the Relic Trustles event, and was crowned the 2023 Queen of the Point. She also co-founded Aokai Swim alongside her older sister. Today, we're getting into what it really takes to pursue your passions, make a career out of longboarding, build a brand from scratch, overcome fear after a life-changing injury, and find out who she is when she's not on the long board. Sally Cohen welcomed athletes after hours. Thank you for having me, this is so exciting. That was a crazy intro. I know, it's always so fun. I get to hype up my friends for a little bit before we get into it. How are you doing? I mean, good, great. I was like, what else do you know about me that I don't even know about myself? Yeah, I'm happy to be back and cruising over here in California. Yeah, how long are you out here for? A little while. Yeah, I've already been here for a while. I think like summertime, there's a lot of surf contests over here, so I spent a lot of time over here, and then between like working over here as well, so. Yeah, you just had a surf contest. How did it go? It was super good. I made, it was a super girl pro, and I made this the quarters lost by point one, it always sucks when you're like that close to making it through. Yeah. Or that close to losing. But yeah, I had a good time. It was my birthday weekend. Yeah, happy birthday. Thank you. How old are we turning? 26. Oh my god. Dude, 26 was like the year. It's a good year. Yeah, you think? Oh, yeah, I love just 26. There's no more songs about you. I know. Like, yeah, this almost, you're like half, over halfway to 30 now. No, you're still thriving. It's gonna be great. I'm so stoked. My hips are always hurting, but it's okay. Girl, same. I mean, that's just like being an athlete, hello. Yeah. Well, I want to get into how you even got into longboarding. Obviously, you growing up on the North Shore, I feel like it breeds surfers. It's very much like the mainstream sport there. Definitely my parents. So, my dad was a professional surf photographer. He was living in San Diego. He's from San Diego. And then he moved to Oahu and made his way to becoming a surf photographer. And that was back when there was magazines. And that was their form of social media. Oh, yeah. So, surfers magazine was huge. Yeah, yeah. So, he did all the, the photo, I mean, not all of them, but you know, a lot of photos for the big mags and stuff. And then my mom was a professional body border from Japan. That's a thing. It was really popular back in the day. With professional body boarding. Yeah, yeah. They had a full tour and everything too. Shut the fuck up, that's so cool. So, she was a champion Japan. And then I think she qualified to like the world championships of some sort. Yeah, I don't really know too much about actual body. Sorry, mom. I mean, it isn't really niche, but it's so sick. Yeah. So, like, how big were these waves that she was surfing? Well, I mean, she came and competed at pipe. So, she body-served pipe. Not body-served body boarding. Do you know what that is? Or, yeah, do you know? Is it like, is it a smaller board? They call it boogie boarding, but boogie boarding. But body boarding, but body boarding, and thing is the right way to say, okay. Is the boogie board smaller? It's like the size of your torso. I think still fucking insane. And then, boogie boarding, do you have pipe on? Yeah, that's insane. Yeah, I don't know if she made it out of barrels. I think she just got into them. Oh, my God. I need to look this up like immediately. Yeah, that sounds so insane. So, you obviously had your parents growing up in the water around surf, you know, everything like that. And then your older sister also serves. Yes, okay. And then I have a younger sister that serves too. Oh, my God. But I think with my parents, both, well, first of all, we live on an island, like you said. Yeah, we live in a place that like surrounded by water. Yeah, like surfing is kind of just like, I think that everyone does. Yeah. Whether you get into it professionally or not, you're just, you're out, you're out the beach, right? And so like, I feel like naturally, you see everyone surfing, you're like, well, I want to go out there and hang out with my friends. So, I'm going to learn how to surf. And so, between my parents being involved in the industry, my mom being on the front end, and then eventually working on the back end, because she started working with my dad. So, you would take photos. She would write for the magazines that were like, Japanese magazines that did English translations and stuff. Yeah. It's cool, because I feel like it kind of came full circle, where they worked in the industry. And then now I work in the industry. So, it's really fun. Yeah, it's cool. That's so cool. Yeah. I love that. And obviously, you guys all get to bond being out in the water. You know, every trip you guys are doing, you know, there's probably surf trips. Like, was there a point where you felt almost like pressure to do it? Or was it always fun for you? I think it was always fun for me. That's cool. I think, well, out of the three of us, me and my sisters, like, we all did it. Yeah. But I was the one that took it for me. Took it for me. Yeah, I was like, I want to do this. Like, this is. Yeah. Are you the most competitive? Yes, 100%. She's like, no, we're not just like playing around. This isn't just a hobby. Yeah. Okay. Pretty much. So, when did you decide to go pro? I don't. Well, like, when did my career become pro or when did I mentally decide to become pro? I mean, actually, I want to hear like, mentally when you were like, okay, I want to take this further and then when you actually did. Okay. So, when I was like 12 or 13, so like, on the North Shore, there's a thing called the menu when you surf contest. Okay. So, like, every gromm does gromm being young kids. Yeah. Surf term here. But, um, yeah. So, you have that until you're 12. And I feel like once you're 12, it's like, are you going to decide to go do, like, the amateur events that are then going to eventually lead to pro, right? So, I asked my parents, I think, at that point, where I was doing. I was only shortboarding. Never got so longboard. Yeah. And I was like, mom, dad, I want to go do this. Like, all the girls that are like, now graduating from this are getting coaches. Because you're kind of at a point where you have to have a coach to tell you how to compete. Because it's not like, there's so many factors in surfing to, like, perform well. Yeah. That you kind of have to, like, have a coach to tell you, like, how to strategize better. 100%. And I said. And you also have eyes on the ocean for you of an extra set of eyes. Yeah. Where they can see the swells. They can read, you know, okay, this. You know, there's going to be a big swell coming through right here. Go left, go right, whatever, right? Like, they can kind of call out to you. Or do they surf with you the whole time? I think a lot of it is, like, doing. Well, you could have your parents kind of do it, but you're. There's a limit to what your parents can't help. For instance, hopefully. Yeah, I think that's another thing, too. But I think also, like, yeah, there's some things that I think you need in terms of someone who's not related to you to do it. But, like, a lot of their parts in it is, like, becoming another parent to you, you know? And it's like, they're on the beach. They're filming all of your waves. They're there for you in every kind of way. Yeah. And that's interesting. But I asked my parents, so I was like, "Can I have one of these dudes that are doing this with groups of kids?" And it's kind of, like, a little bit more of, like, a boot camp, right? Just more structured. Yeah. And expensive. Yeah. So my parents said, "No." My parents were like, "No way, you're going to go to school." I was. Well, I was homeschooled, but I went to, like, a charter school. And my parents were like, "No, you're going to, like, focus on graduating, obviously." Which, like, a lot of surfers now, at the level of, like, pro, a lot of them drop out of school. They don't need to, yeah. And there's no regulation in our organization that says that you need to finish school or you need to be. I don't know how that works with other sports, but. It's, like, girl, math, like, less time at school and more time in the water. Yeah. All that you're going to get better. Yeah, because there's nothing. There's not a lot of things that you can do, I think, that mimic surfing, as much as just surfing. Just surfing. Right, like, so it's like the time that you put in really comes out. I think this is the same as gymnastics as well. Like, there's very few things that you can do outside of the gym. That would actually help you, besides just doing the skills themselves. Right, yeah. Because I've been, like, I've been injured a bunch, and I feel like during those times, you're, like, trying to mimic, like, the certain movements that you do when you're surfing, and you're, like, there's nothing that can, like, kind of. Yeah, there's no, there's no substitute, really. There is, but not as much as just surfing. Yeah. When you're surfing, do you have, like, a mental shift? Because, like, we met. I didn't even preface this. Like, we met when I was out on a Wahoo with Red Bull USA. And we got to surf. It was so bad. I'm, like, getting to see you surf, you know, up close, so it was so cool. Like, obviously, I've been around a lot of short borders, but longboarding, I'm not as familiar with. I know my little brother does it, but, like, that's kind of my only time I've seen anyone longboard. And so it was so cool, getting to watch you guys and, like, your style and, like, your approach and everything. And, um, do you have, like, a mental shift between, like, when you're having fun and when you're, like, training? Like, I feel like that would be really hard to do. I don't know. I mean, do you have fun, like, during gymnastics? Do you train everyday? Like, yeah. What I'm not competing, but I think what I was competing, like, there's no way. I couldn't just, like, do some. Like, you're not having fun. I mean, like, I'm having fun, but in a different. [no audio] mindset. Yeah. Like it's, I guess so. Yeah. I mean, I mean, yeah, that's a good, I don't even know how to answer that question. I know. I was just thinking about that. I'm like, I feel like because of that sport, it's like, it's a hobby, but it's also a sport. Like it'd be really hard to kind of decipher. Yeah. When you're surfing for fun, when you're surfing for for competition. Yeah. I, it's, it's kind of a sport that like, you're fighting yourself, not fighting yourself, but like you're competing with yourself. Yeah. All the time. Yeah. But yeah, it can, it can get to a point where you're just like, you're having fun, but you're not really having fun the entire time. So you actually made a good point there. Yeah. But like, yeah, I, I think until after my injuries and once I kind of got out of that and everything, I was like, oh, I'm, I'm having fun now. Like you like get to surf. Yeah. Like I was grateful. Oh, and like, yeah, I couldn't surf before that. So like, I think it, the sport itself consumed me in a sense of like, like, competitively. And I wasn't having fun at a certain point. Yeah. I don't think so. I want to dive into that. Like when you were surfing competitively before the injury, were there times where you maybe wanted to quit or you just felt like, you were kind of at your wit's end with the whole thing. I think it became like a part of my life that I didn't think it would ever not that I didn't think it was ever end. I feel like I always kind of said that because like I said, my parents weren't, they weren't like breeding me to become a surfer. They were like finished school or whatever. And then when I kind of started focusing on it and started doing well as an adult, they were like, okay, not an adult, but like in high school where they're like, okay, you're actually committed to this. So we'll start helping you out. But I didn't think that it was going to be, like, I don't think I have to quit because it's like a lifestyle. Surfing is a lifestyle, right? Like you can surf when you're like, but by quit, like, do you mean competitively? Yeah, like competitively. And when you're in it, you don't think you will. Yeah. Because it just like, you get fomo. Like, I should have been there. I could have done this. Like, I could have won that, you know? Yeah. So like, yeah, when you're in it, I didn't think that was going to quit, like, for a while. Because longboarding, especially you, well, I mean, like, look at killing, actually, never mind, not so much shortboarding too. You can be surfing till later in life. But yeah, I think, I think a part of me wanted to quit. So I was kind of like almost happy when I got injured in some ways, which is really weird. Yeah. That is a weird feeling. Yeah. Do you think just because it got too serious for you, like, you got too competitive and you kind of lost the plot a little bit? I think so. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I would say so. Yeah. So when you decided to start longboarding professionally, what made you decide to do longboarding versus shortboarding? Well, I think, I think, like I said, like, when I was at that age where everyone was getting coaches, coaches were like, pretty valuable, especially in shortboarding. Because, and there's also such a, like, so many girls and boys to doing shortboarding, I think more than longboarding in a competitive sense, that it's like only the 1% is going to, like, make the tour, you know? So you have to just, like, freaking grind. And like, with longboarding, it's like, it's a little more accessible. I'd say there's less people doing it. Yeah. I think so. It's less competitive. I think so. Okay. Yeah. And there's like, yeah, I guess just like the time you put in. And it's a little more achievable in terms of even financially, right? It's a little more achievable because the shortboarding, it's like, you have to, you have to be really rich to be able to be on tour. Really? Yeah. Both tours, really. But wow. Yeah. Do you pay for all your own travel? Yes. Wow. Yes. Surfing. So there's a lot of stuff for any of the travel, any of the expenses when you're traveling for all those events. No, it's a, it's a business. It is not an athlete represented tour. Does that make sense? Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. How long have you been on tour? I'm not on tour anymore. Okay. I was for three years, I think? Oh, yeah. Yeah. Qualified when I was 18 going on to 19 and then I was on tour until COVID hit. And then it kind of teereal. There was no tour for like a year. Okay. Yeah. I think. And so it gave you a glimpse of what life would look like without the tour. And then you decided not to go back. That and I fell through a balcony and then broke my face. So why did I think that your injury was not from that? I thought it was from when you were at the surf ranch. Yes. That was my first one. Oh my gosh. We need to get into this. Okay. Before we get into this. So you were, so you're now you're not on tour. I'm not on tour now. And you don't want to go back. No, you have no plans of returning. No. Okay. Yeah. I mean, you still can do events and compete. I, yes. There are non tour events, you know, on the world surf league tour. Yes. There have, there's separate events, especially for long boarding. Nice. Like I don't really know a lot of short board events besides maybe like the stab events or whatever that like are put on, which probably get more like at the end of the day, they might be making more money doing that way. Then the tour. But yeah, I mean, I, even the direction I'm going, it's fun and I'm making more money in a sense. You don't have to spend as much money. Yes. Yeah. Exactly. Smart. Yeah. I think that's, that's what I want to get into afterwards. Yeah. I can't wait to hear about this. Talk about my trauma first. Yeah. We need a dive. Which trauma do you want to unpack first? You're just going chronological order. Okay. Yeah. So you're obviously at the peak of your career, you're competing, you're doing well, you're thriving, you're on tour. Yeah. And then you're having is a really interesting choice of words. We weren't thriving because I wouldn't say we were thriving because I feel like the years that I was on tour, it was like, I was doing well at the sport that I was doing. Yeah. But behind the scenes, we were not. Not really now. Okay. I think it's like, yeah, getting kind of consumed by the the sport itself. And the results. Yeah. And then also just like the atmosphere that you're in. I really didn't enjoy that. I had a really hard time being on tour because you're gone all the time. Yeah. You don't have time to be at home with all your friends. Yeah. And then also just like everyone on tour is just really, I don't know if he's going to think this, but everyone's not nice. I was just about to say I feel like no matter what, it's going to foster a community of kind of mean girls because you guys are all competing against each other. It's an individual sport the other day. Like you all are I chose roads. Yeah. Obviously not literally. But I think there's like a very weird dynamic. And I can't even imagine like traveling with my competitors constantly. And being like, oh, like I was just I was really talking to John John about that too, where I was like, it probably makes it a very weird dynamic because you're like, what are they eating? Oh my god, should I eat that? And like you just like, are they warming up already? Like, should I start warming up? Like you kind of get in your head, like, talk me through that, like how and then the girls weren't nice. Well, it's also girls, right? Yeah. So you go look at the guys tour, like we'll be on tour with guys too. And look at the guys and they could be like arguing about something one day in the next day. They're fine. And you're like, this is just typical. Like, right? Girls, they know, it's not that easy. The grudges are held. Yeah. Yeah. And yeah, I think it's it is such a niche sport. You know, there's like such little amounts of people who can make it to that point. And I think the support is so little in the organization itself, right? Like you asked me about how like, do we get paid to be at the event? Yeah, we pay to be there. We pay to be in the event. We pay your coaches everything. Yeah, everything. Like you got to think about how much we put into the sport ourselves. And I think that and then the prize money is probably like slim pickings anyways. Exactly. So the main the main income that you can possibly make is through advertisements and sponsorships, right? So not not the entire one company's not going to sponsor all the girls, right? So it's like now you're going to get a sponsorship. So that I think that's where yeah, yeah, stressful. Yeah. And I didn't go to high school, right? Like I went to charter schools. So like for me, I think this was my experience of going to school, kind of, right? Oh, high school girls. Yeah, yeah. So like I'm looking at the other girls and they're getting all the sponsors. Oh, my is it because I'm not blonde? Yeah, because I'm not like, am I not pretty enough? Like yeah, you start to compare in a very like toxic way. Oh, that's so hard. And then obviously your sport too being in a bikini. Yeah, like don't even get me started. Oh, true. Yeah. Yeah, that's the whole other thing. Yeah, that's a whole new thing. Yeah. So there's there's layers to it for sure. Yeah. So then you're on tour, you look like you're thriving. Not really thriving. Not really thriving. And then and then still on tour. And then I think it just kind of got to me. I think I was kind of at a burnout stage, maybe a little bit a little too far. And then well, the passion can only carry you so far. Yeah, when there's so much that's kind of weighing on you. Yeah. And I think I was also getting to an age where my parents were like, they were going to support me. Like my parents are so loving. They're so supportive. And they're probably they would probably keep they're on money at me, which is so nice. But my goal was to like, oh, I want to be able to take my parents on the next contest and pay for them with me and like have sponsorships and like all this stuff, right? And-- - It's a dream. - Yeah, and I feel like maybe I got to a point where I realized like, oh, I'm not going to financially be able to do this. Like, or if I am, it's going to be like, all of my money is going to be put into surfing and that wasn't-- my goal was to be of its famous surfer, like, athlete, whatever, and like, be successful. - Yeah, of course, everyone wants to be like the next a lot of blanchored, you know, Bethany Hamilton. - Yeah. - And it's tough when reality hits and you're like, this is a lot more investment than there is return. - Yeah, exactly, yeah. That's kind of soul-crushing. - Yeah, so I think maybe a little bit of that, I don't know, anyways, I hit this burnout. I have this issue of like wanting to be one of the guys all the time. - We're just tomboyists. - Yeah, but in the day. - I can do it, I can do it better. - Yes, so I have a case as well. - Yeah, and this is a perfect example. Everyone who's listening or watching just don't be stupid. (laughing) Don't be stupid because, yeah, I think I was already like, what the heck, whatever, and I was at this party and first question, I get asked always, is were you wasted? No, I wasn't. I don't really drink very much. - Yeah, so I don't give off that energy. - I'll have one drink and I'm like, yeah. - Yeah, I'm drinking great times, yeah. - So I go to this party and everyone's like jumping into the pool, they're like jumping over the patio. Like railing, running, getting a head start and I was like, okay, I know, I can't do that. Like, I'm not that athletic, but I'm still gonna jump into the pool because I want to and no girl is. So yeah, I went and walked over to this area of the patio that wasn't really finished yet or I don't really know, took one step on this beam 'cause I wanted to be like you, fell right through, hit the concrete and broke my foot, destroyed my foot. They told me I was never gonna surf again. Yeah. - Shut up. - Yeah, I like landed, like a few, I'm like sweating right now. - I know, I'm like, I'm like in a story, I'm like sweating. - Well it's like forces you like relive it. 'Cause I never talked about it really. Not really, like I did all my socials here and there and that's kinda how my socials began. Like I was already doing social, but that's a crazy story. But being on tour, I had no time to really do a lot of socials or it's also this ego thing as a surfer where you're like, I wanna be known as a good surfer. I don't wanna be known as like the girl who fell off a balcony. - Oh yeah. (laughs) Okay. - No, I mean, I think more so like you don't wanna be the sell out girl. You don't wanna be the one that's like looking pretty, doing the sport rather than being really good at it. - Letting you still speak for itself. - Yeah, kinda. - Yeah, right. So it is a huge, I feel like I know such a big shift since social media became a thing because I remember, like, and I've talked to other athletes about this as well and there's a huge split where it's like some athletes are kind of rolling with the new times. They're posting content. They're starting to get into like the content creation side. But then there's also other athletes who are like, no, I'm gonna let my sports speak for itself and I'm gonna let my athletics speak for itself. And it's like, it's such an interesting thing. - Yeah. - 'Cause it's like. - But we were just talking about how like there's athletes now that we know that aren't competitive athletes but they're considered athletes. I mean, they have sponsors and everything. - Oh yeah, like they've built their brand as an athlete, but they're not competing. - Yeah, it's such a trouble. - And I think COVID had a lot to do with that too, right? So I think during that time of when I was like, what the heck am I gonna do with my life? And then I'd go and destroy my foot. I mean, it was a compound fracture by the way. There was bone out of the skin, it was bad. - No, I know how you're sweating. - Yeah, I'm like, I'm so, yeah. I've seen one compound fracture in my life and I hope I never see one again. - That same, I guess, that makes me squirm. Like I grew up obviously going into like my dad's surgeries. Like with him on my role, I like at age seven. Or like all my dad's computer, all of his photos are just like surgery photos. - Yeah. - Just like super cool. - And they kind of love looking at him too. - I know, like you're like, you're a freak. But like I've been desensitized like mentally to like surgery stuff, but like that, gnarly. - Yeah, when you, when you, especially when it's like your own, your own. - Yeah, yeah. - I like was like, never thought I would see my bone out of my body, I was like, oh, that's me. - Yeah. - I didn't know. - Like the fall? Like from the balcony. - Oh, like, I mean, how far is a balcony typically? - From like a body store. - Like eight feet? - 10 feet? - It was probably more than that. - I would say it's probably like 12 feet. - Oh my god. - But it didn't, it didn't take that long to hit the bottom. I mean, it should have like a few seconds. - Yeah. - Oh, I know. - So you hit the ground, hit the ground, and then you jumped into the pool. - I hit the ground, like the reason why I only broke my foot, my actually not even my foot, my toes, were because I was going to take the step. So you can imagine my foot was like this. So I just fell right through the patio. Like I heard the crack, and I felt like going through the wood. - Yeah. - And that's where I was lucky, 'cause I landed like this on my toes. So all of my toes went that way, and then my foot went this way. So that's how it was a compound. And like two, my big toe, pinky toe, dislocated, fractured, my three metatarsals in between. - Oh my god. - And so when I landed, yes, I landed, and then I took the shock in my toes, and then I just dove into the pool. And then that's when, yeah, when I went to the doctor, they kept asking me like, did you land on anything? Like did you land back and try to grab yourself with your hand? And I said, no, I just dove in the pool. - 'Cause you were like right on the edge of the pool. - I was like a few feet away. Like I think it was kind of a hop. I don't remember. - I don't remember. - Obviously. - But I don't know why I'm like a savior. (laughing) - I feel like I would be embarrassed. I'd be like, oh, I'm like jumping the pool. - Right. - Joining me exactly what I was thinking when I landed on the ground. - No, it's just, maybe because of like all the time I've spent in the water, maybe my brain thought water's safer. - Yeah, weird. - I don't know, freaky. - Because, yeah, when I was laying there, I feel like they didn't believe my story. - Yeah, so they were like moving my shoulder, like making sure nothing else was fractured, right? Like moving my hands. - So you're really lucky that you only. - Kind of, yeah, I mean lucky that like, and they were shocked that my toes really did take the shock and like not the rest of my foot. So now I'm surgery. - Yeah, I had emergency surgery. Like I was like living in the hospital for a few days. And then I got back and like my foot didn't look that great. I was on crutches for three months, by the way. - Oh my gosh. - I was on crutches for three months. And I had these like little, not so little, needles type thing. I'm sure you've seen it. - Yeah. - Yeah, like sticking out of my toes, you can see the little divots on all my toes till here, for the toe content. Sicking out of the toes to keep the feet, the toes straight, because they wanted to be in that direction. So they had to be like held that way for months. - Dude, this is so gnarly. - While I was on crutches. Yeah, and then I got kind of better. Like, I mean enough to like start moving again. - Yes, learning how to walk again. - As an adult is something crazy and everything else has to go through that. But I kind of like had to do as well. And then it's really awkward, but very strange. - Very consumed by my sport again. I was like, I'm not taking a break. Like, yeah, I was out, but I'm obviously, I'm still on tour at this time. So the next event's coming up kind of soon. So I better start, like, there's no time to take a break. So I just started training and everything again and then I started surfing. Not at the level that I wanted to be, but I'm like, I didn't want to fall off of tour. So I'm gonna keep doing it. And then probably like four months after the foot injury, after I got recovered from the foot injury, Jamie, my brother-in-law, was like, "Hey, I've got these people who want to have me "at the surf ranch at Lemurly's wave pool thing." And I was like, it's so expensive. - Is this the one in Waco or the one in Central California? - Central Lemur California, right? And I'm like, oh my God, I've only seen this on like, - Dude, it's like the league brand to surf I think for the day or something, right? - It's like, I think it's much more than that. Really? - It's much more than that, yeah. - Oh shit. - If I thought I heard like something, I'm like, $80,000 in the name of the day. - No, no, I don't think it's that. - I think it might be for the entire day if you're like a company renting it. - Fair enough, yeah, yeah, yeah. - 'Cause then you have the full day, you know? But this, whoever this family was, which was super, super nice. I think they were like huge fans of Jamie or whatever. They wanted them to come and surf with him and like Jamie was like, yeah, I was still got the grom. Like, yeah, let's do it. I think it was his birthday and he was like, I'm gonna bring my filmers and they were like, you can bring your wife or I think they were married or ready by then. My sister is a surfer but she likes Tina size waves. She was like, what are Tina size waves? She was like, yeah, those waves are not Tina size 'cause it barrels, it fully barrels. So she's like, yeah, and I think you should take Sally because I had a tour, that was a next stop on tour. Our first year having a long board tour stop at the ranch. - At the ranch. - So I was like, let me get my reps in. 'Cause there's only, because of how expensive and how. hard. It was to get there. Yeah. There's only a few girls that actually have been there that they get access to it. Yeah. Or can either afford it or whatever. So I was like, okay, this is my opportunity to have like a leg up. Yeah. And I'm like kind of back, but I feel good enough to be able to do this. Yeah. So I went with Jamie and I was like super thankful that Jamie took me, but we had three whole days there. Oh my gosh. So I think we got there and we weren't even supposed to surf in the evening the day before the before the three days began. Yeah. Like they were like, you know, whatever. We'll just throw you out there. I don't really know what happened, but I was like, cool. Okay. Set one out. And it was at night. And I wear contacts. And I was like, it's like so different from the ocean because you're going so fast. You're like in the desert basically. Yeah. And like, I was like, I don't know if I this is hard to get used to. There's no there's no reading the wave from looking at the wave. Yeah. So like, so give people a little bit of an idea of what this wave pool looks like. It's basically like this big body of water. And then there's a train that goes by, right? And it's like the imagine like a football field of water. Yeah. And then like a, yeah, like a train, which is like, it's basically a foil. Yeah. That's like pulling the water to then create a wave. Yeah. Yeah. I feel like this is a question for like Kelli or something. I know. I don't know how this works. It's look it up. It's really really cool. If you haven't seen it before, but essentially you can make the perfect wave. It's like the trickiest thing ever. And then like, I mean, it's the same thing. And you have the same consistent wave, right? You can like, as consistent as I think you can. Yeah. But like, how a wave forms in the ocean is like what's underneath the wave, right? Like if there's reef, that's how we have point breaks or like cobblestone or rocks. Yeah. Because that was a cobblestone. Yeah. Yeah. Like rocks or whatever. How trestles is it a frame because of the way the bottom of the water is, right? So that's kind of how they did it. And it's concrete at the bottom. So you got to consider that too. Trippy. So yeah, it gets pretty shallow there. But the shallow where the water is, the more the water can be thrown over. Yeah. So that's how a barrel works. That's how that's why barrels are so dangerous. Yes. Yeah. So I go there and like the next morning, I'm like, I'll fire it up. Remember watching like a few of the clips that I got to watch that long borders have gone there and posted. So I'm like, okay, now I got this like I felt like I ate shit enough that I can like do this now. Yeah. And I'm watching Jamie like, am I allowed to swear on this podcast? Of course. I'm seeing Jamie get barreled from like the top to the bottom. But this is like Jamie's one of the best barrel writers in the world. Yeah. Right? But I'm like, if he could do it, I can do it better. And yeah. And on a long word. He's on a short board. Yeah. I'm like, I can do this. And yeah. So I'm like slotting myself so deep in these barrels and made it out of few of them. And like I swear the staff was like, we've never seen a long word girl like get this deep at this barrel. And I'm like, I'm like, well, like I'm only here now. Like and I think also you have a jet ski following you. Yes. You have you're so close to like land. Yeah. If thought pretty much already on land. Yeah. Mentally you're like, I'm safe. That's how I felt when I was at the pool. Interesting. I was like, when it feels like a controlled environment. Yeah. So you feel like this false sense of safety because it is a controlled environment to some degree. It's not the ocean. Yeah. Exactly. There's some level of expectancy with each wave that it's going to be consistent. So I didn't expect to get hurt basically. Of course. Right. So then we're doing okay, though. And you're crushing it. Yeah. And barrel left and right on a big ass board. It was it was sick. I was so like the confidence boost that you needed to like after your big injury with your foot. Yeah. Yeah. Until I was in the backside barrel. Didn't make it out of one and I was like, okay, I'm going to try again. And the second time it literally I just fell like I did in my previous waves. I didn't think anything of it. And like when you fall, you try to kind of cover your head. Yeah. But like, I don't know. You don't think that you're getting wiped out. So there's a lot of other things going on, right? And your body's getting pulled and thrown in like a washing machine. Yeah. And so I kind of like let my guard down a little early, I'd say. And nothing that I would have ever expected, which I guess can happen anytime, anywhere, but like the board, the rail of my board. And this is probably like an 18, 19 pound board, I'd say made out of like fiberglass, you know, like it hit me in my chin. And then I came out of the water and I'm holding like my face, like my chin. And I remember asking Jamie, like, do you think I'm okay? Is it okay? And I just like looked at him and I was like, I know it's not okay. Like I think you know. Yeah. And I'm like, just say it's okay. Please just say it's okay. And he's like, Oh, yeah. I don't really remember what he even said to me honest, but I didn't get knocked out. Okay. That's the way I had the best thing I've probably described. It has is like, you know, have you seen it? UFC fights? Yeah. You know when like people kind of, kind of get knocked out. Yeah. It's like a split. And then when they do, like kind of get hit and they like get rattles, kind of like, and then they kind of come back. Yeah. That's how I felt. Okay. So I felt like getting knocked by my board. And I remember like just accepting it. Yeah. At one point I was like, All right. This is happening. Yeah. This is my fate. And then I came up out of the water and I was like, Oh, yeah. This sucks. You for sure got concussed. Oh, 100%. Yeah. But did I get tested for that or anything? No. So board hit me split my chin open. You can see like two scars here. Yeah. I'm wearing, I'm wearing makeup because I got so excited to be on the podcast. I don't, I don't ever wear makeup, but I want to make up on. But yeah, I have to, it was two huge last iterations that went all the way through my mouth. Holy shit. My bottom. You could like put your tongue through. So I didn't know that. So when I got to the doctor, they're like, so is it open all the way? Like we don't know. There's like a lot of blood going on, like what the heck? Yeah. And they're like, can you stick your tongue through or can you stick your finger through your, your, your, your chin? And I was like, I don't want to do that. Like, that's like, I don't know. It's like asking that to like dig through it. Yeah. And I was like, no, I'm going to throw up. Yeah. Yeah. I was like, I was like, I don't want to do that. And they said, okay, well, here's a cup of water. Try to drink it. Put it in your mouth, close your mouth, and push out. And then I have two streams of water coming out of my face. That's how they figured it out. Oh my god, dude. Yeah. That's crazy that because it wasn't a fin. No, that cut your face. No, but the fiberglass split. So it was jagged. And so it cut my, I thought it was just from the impact. I think it, well, I mean, because I split my chin from just hitting the concrete. It was the impact. Okay. It was the impact. And then it's impressive that it managed to get wholly through, though. I mean, there was a lot of force there. Yeah. I think the board went over and then yeah, came back. So yeah, so it's him. But not only that, it fractured, it fractured horizontally on my jawline. So like here, instead of like this way, so I was lucky I didn't have to like get a full reconstruction. Um, so there was a fracture here on the bottom of like where my teeth are, my roots. So two of the roots were shattered. They had to do like take them out and do them. Yes. Yeah. Two of those. And then the other two, they're like, okay, we assessed it after taking a bunch of CT scans that it's safe. Um, and then I had, it was about a year of me not having teeth. I didn't have like my bottom four teeth. So these are all fake. You poor thing. Yeah. This is like my most expensive thing that I own or my teeth. I'm like, really proud of them. Um, they're gorgeous. Yeah. You have the best smile too. I mean, luckily, like you can't really see your bottom teeth. Bottom teeth might be fine. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Like imagine it was your front top teeth. Yeah, exactly. Hillbilly for a whole year. Yeah. Tough. Well, I did have a retainer that I had that had like the teeth. Yeah. And then like before I eat, I would like take out my retainer and I'd be like, don't worry. Yes. And I would have like a little case for it. And I'd like put it in my pocket. Oh my god. And then you're supposed to like clean your teeth and like put it back on. But like if I'm out, I'll just run on back on the teeth. We're being grinded. Yeah. We're grinding. It's fine. But yeah, we don't grind shame out here. That's actually the most insane thing ever though. Like oh my god. My experience at the hospital in the middle of middle California where everyone's like, it's the armpit. Yeah. That was terrible. Like that was crazy. It was during COVID. No one was allowed in with me. So that was one thing. There was not enough rooms or beds. So I was put I basically, because of my foot injury prior to this, I know how things take time in a hospital. Yeah. Like you sit there for hours. You're in a waiting room for hours. So when they ask you what your pain level is and I, you shouldn't lie. But when you're in a situation like this where my face was like bleeding. Yeah. My teeth were all crooked. Quite urgent. Everything. They were like, well, you're not dying like all these other people. Like there was people. There were people in there shot. There was like, oh my god. There is a lot of like drugs around that area because it's like the middle of fucking nowhere. So I basically, when they were like kind of coming up to me next, when they were moving me to a bed, I literally acted like I was going to pass out when they were walking me over. Like as if I wasn't going to be able to walk. I'm like, just bump it up a little bit. The thing was, after my foot injury, where I couldn't walk, my brain was like, I can still walk and move my arms. So I'm like totally fine. Also the athlete in you is like, I'm fine. I'm fine. I'm fine. Always. Yeah. Like fake it so you make it. Yeah. Yeah. But like seriously, I'm like, I can still function. Yeah. So I'm fine. But I was like, I got to act like I'm really not fine for them to put me in like, because it was like COVID. Like there was a lot. We also like could go from like fine to like really not find pretty fast with a big gaping hole in your face. Do you know what I mean? So yeah, especially with like, I think another bacteria and blood loss. I think another thing was when I got got hit by my board, I cut. nerve. So I still can't feel here. Really. Yeah. Like I'm on it. Was it hard to talk? I don't think I tried to talk because I need like, yeah, fair. I was too scared. Yeah, fair enough. Right. Yeah. I was too scared to talk. But it's crazy. But I did still kind of, I was functioning enough that I was fine. But anyways, I acted like I was going to like die basically. And then they started panicking. They got me like a wheelchair that they put me on a bed in the hallway. They had no room for me in any of the rooms. Oh my God. I felt bad because I was calling the nurses over that were like, probably on their breaks. And they were like, giving me dirty looks basically. And I felt like I had to say sorry to them all the time. Yeah. But like, yeah, I feel bad. Like sorry for, come on. Yeah. But they stitched me back together in a really bad way. I mean, it was just an ER, you know, and they just put me back together, which needed to be done. Yeah. And none of the dentist stuff, you know, that none of that stuff was done there. Yeah. So. And because it's dentist work, or you know, like dentistry or whatever, it was not covered. Right. So like that was a whole thing. I ended up living in California for about a month. My cousins that I didn't really know that well, which was super kind. They were like, stay at our house. Like, we're not home right now. They want to trip in Europe. There you go. It was really, really cool that they let me like stay there. My sister was with me. Jamie ended up coming over and being there for part of it too. So like, I had a lot of support in terms of like being stuck over here. Yeah. But like, it's also because the medical is better here. So yeah, it was about a month of being here and getting everything kind of done. After the whole month towards the end of it, I actually went to a, like a cosmetic surgeon and he looked at my stitches and was like, Oh, they really just put you back together. Yeah. Like typically when you have like a jagged, I guess, I don't know the stuff right now. Just like keep the aesthetic. Like there's a very specific way to do it. Like my brother split his cheek open with a, it's a surfboard fin. Okay. He was out in the water, like messing around and the fin came up and hit him in the face, needed 40 stitches in his cheek. But my parents were like, yeah, no, a plastic surgeon's going to do that because like you hit one wrong nerve. His face is fucked up for life. You know, and now it just looks like really dimple. They did a great job. Yeah. But it was so gnarly looking. And it's like there is a very specific way, especially with your face to like make it look good. So that's scary that they just like stitch it up and we're like, Okay, bye. Yeah. So like in terms of like doing it right, like the, the cosmetic surgeon was like, you need to have all that jagged skin is like pretty much dead skin. Yeah. So you got to cut that off clean. So that when you put it back together, it's like a clean stitch. Yeah. And so it wasn't like that. They just kind of like put me back together because it was just an emergency. Yeah. Yeah. So obviously had to be done. But then when they said you have to wait for the scar to heal, which takes about a year. So I waited until I had the teeth pretty much like at that point, I almost had my teeth put in. And I had to do, they had to cut the entire scar out, both scars and then restitch my face back together at a cosmetic place. Oh my gosh. And then since it's cosmetic surgery, it's not covered, not covered. So your pockets are hurting. I had to go fund me. I had a lot of support. So that's where I was going to lead into the fact that social media was really helping me at the time. That's huge. And I wasn't really focused on like social media was to like tell my friends like, I mean, you're up on sure. He'll show the highlight. Yeah. Like something like, nah, I wasn't really thinking anything of my socials. It was just like for my friends or whatever. I wasn't taking it that seriously. And then I think during the injury process, people kept asking me what's going on like, are you doing like it's so nice. You know, it's like so nice. And people are asking you all these questions. But you're like, I wish there was a way to just like tell you all how everyone right now. And then I don't have to answer and relive the same thing over and over. Right. So social media started like becoming a family. Yeah. And then I started getting followers and then support from a lot of these followers that I didn't even know right at the time. I probably had like 50 K or something. Yeah. There was all these people like sending me money for my surgery, which every penny went to my surgery like legit. Yeah. And I still ended up paying more out of my pocket. But yeah, I was like, whoa, like this is a thing now. Like social media is a thing now. Yeah. I don't know if it just took me time to like figure that out or something. But I think everyone kind of figures it out in their own way. Yeah. Yeah. I think everyone does it differently. Like the fact that you were able to kind of garner a really, really kind supportive following and build a community around something really traumatic is super cool. And like I think is a huge testament to you and like who you are because obviously your authenticity shines through. And like people know that you you know what I mean? Like they know you have a kind heart and like you're not just asking people for money to ask people for money. You know, like yeah, you truly were like in sync or swim mode. And I think that's really cool that your your followers showed up for you and did that because that's huge. It was cool. I it took me time to actually start to go find me because usually you have like also a friend that usually does it for you and whatever. Yeah. But I remember asking my parents like what do you think I should do this? And my parents my entire life were like, Hey, if you want to go to this event or whatever. Like when they they were still helping me, but they were like, if you want to go to do this like big cookies and sell them. Yeah. That's what I was doing. You know, I think don't ask for handouts. Yeah. And I was like, Oh, go find me like you see some of the athletes on there that are like help me get to national championships or whatever. And you're like, it's sick, but like my parents would be so mad if I did that. Yeah. So I felt like it was wrong asking for money kind of. And then everyone that like I knew were like we want to help you. We want to support you. Yeah. And I also it's just more like any penny helps. Like, yeah, it doesn't have to be big lump sums of money. Yeah. It could be like five bucks, ten bucks. Like anything helps at that point because you're literally fighting for your life, trying to just pay these medical bills. For sure. So yeah, good for you. That's awesome. It was super helpful and I'm super grateful. But yeah. And then it and then it became this whole thing of like I can I had time to really think about my self career. Yeah. And like my competitive career a lot of downtime. Yeah. And kind of wondering like, what the heck am I doing? And then also just like, I guess it's like, yeah, what the heck am I doing? Because you're kind of finally put out of that like high school type of like energy of being around all these people that you like kind of kind of low key hate the whole time. And then doing something that you love, but maybe not represented the right way by this organization. Yeah. I don't know if I want to get into that. But I made me realize like, I want to keep doing this, but I don't know how. And how do your own way? Yeah. Or like, do I go back to school? It was like that crisis. I think it was like that early 20s crisis, you know? Oh, yeah. I know that one all too well. Yeah. And it was post COVID almost at this point. And then you're like, everyone at COVID, the people who were kind of smart, like went to school and already finished. Like what the heck or like built massive followings on social media or yeah, or did some millionaire. I don't know. You're just like, you're comparing yourself to others. Of course. And so like, I think I was in that like I'm lost. And then it became social media, I guess, slowly. Yeah. Yeah. I don't know how it rolled into it. But it definitely had to do with the injury. Yeah. And then blessing in disguise. Yeah. And then I think also with as soon as I started putting like a little more than zero effort into my social media, I started getting sponsorships. So like, I dreamt of being on a big energy drink company. I got sponsored by Celsius for like over a year or something. And like, that's huge. I had signings. And I got sponsored by XL wetsuits and like all these things that I was like, all your dream brands. Yeah. When I was working so hard to like just be there, you know, and now it's like I'm kind of having more fun. Yeah. Sharing my version of what I want, what I want to be doing. We have autonomy on your career. Like you get to decide, you know, okay, I don't have to do this event because I need the money. I get to do this event. Yeah. And like I can make money elsewhere. And like, yeah, now you can make money literally just surfing on the beach by yourself, like, kind of making content, you know, like, it's so crazy. And so I think it does give athletes this opportunity to one, not put all of their worth into their results and like their competitions. Yeah. But also to make money outside of it. And I think that's huge. Yeah. So then you obviously built your brand. But then you also built a brand. Yeah. So I think that same time. Yeah. That same time you guys are cooking. We were like my sister and I. Yeah. Because my sister was not competitive in surfing. She was like, she loved it for what it was. Or yeah. And she and she was always there by my side supporting me. But she was like, I think the biggest thing that we looked for in terms of branding and partnerships, it's like, where do we get free bikinis? Where do we get bikinis? Because bikinis are expensive. So expensive. You have to like take out a fucking loan to get it. Yeah, actually $200 for a suit. Are you kidding? Yeah. It's crazy. And then also when you're surfing in them, you're really, you're punishing your suits. They're not lasting very long. Yeah. Yeah. And then also just like finding a suit that fits right. Because you don't want anything falling out while you're surfing, you know? Yeah, like sporty. Yeah. Functional. But also, you don't want to like, but also cute. Yeah. You don't want to be wearing like, we're trying to look cute out here. Yeah. We're not trying to wear a Costco. You can use a kit. Look at, feel good. Yeah. Yeah. So I think that's where we were like, what can we do to like kind of make a suit that fits right, feels good, looks good, that kind of vibe. - Yeah. - And then we started our own thing just to like, where I think it was like for our friends and just for us to wear. - Yeah. - And then it kind of like rolled into like, oh, we can have our little like small business while we build our own brands and then build our own brand. I don't know, it was just like it all worked out together. - Yeah, and one of the lines so much with your lifestyle, it's so easy, like you're constantly in a bikini, so you're constantly promoting it. - Yeah. - And it's like, I got to try your bikinis and I absolutely freaking love them. I'm not going to buy like 10. And like, they had like this cute little surf top too that I wore when I went surfing with Red Bulls. I literally got so many compliments. I'm like, guys, it was in your peer package. You should have thought. Like way cuter than the little other ones. And I'm like, it was so good. - That means so much, yeah. - And it's just so cool, like I love supporting small businesses but also just like when their female led, female inspired, like they're there to help women feel confident in their bodies while in a suit, like that's huge. - Yeah. - It's so cool. It's been cool to kind of watch it grow. - Yeah. - I feel like it's still, like it's so little compare, like again, we constantly compare us to other people, right? - We get to like market research. - Yeah. - But you can't take it personally and be like, oh, because I trust me when I tell you I did that shit so much going into building it out this podcast. And obviously when you're looking at podcasts, you're like, okay, you're looking at the angles. You're looking at the frames. You're looking at what's in the room, what's in the studio, whatever, and like trying to build this out. And I remember like getting so discouraged in my head because I was comparing the quality to like a call her daddy or a Jay Shetty podcast. And I'm like, these are multi-million dollar productions. What the fuck do I think is gonna happen? Like I can't just make, you know what I mean? I can just like replicate that. Like there's, they have a whole team of people. It's like me holding myself to that standard of the scene. I know, I would just have to do better. I just have to be rich, okay? I gotta make it work better. - I know. - I just wrong with you. - No, literally that's why I told myself every week and I was like, it was like debilitating. Like truly, it was like so frustrating. And I remember like probably venting to Wes, like my producer and just being like, why am I beating myself up so much? And it's like, oh, well, you're comparing something that's like at its early stages. Not saying that this could never get there. It's just that you gotta learn to walk before you can run. And before you freaking walk, you gotta crawl. And so I think that was me having that like really strong realization of like, and I've never really started from scratch before. Like I can think of maybe like one or two things that really truly started from scratch that I like really cared about. And it's like gymnastics in this. And so I think that was a really big realization too. - But gymnastics was when you were a kid. - I was a kid. - So starting from scratch, when you're a adult. - Yeah. - Yeah. - And it was when I know that feeling. I mean, the money wasn't coming out of my pocket so I'm paying for gymnastics. - Yeah, exactly. - Like shit. - You know, like my parents paying for that. Sorry guys, but they were paying for the private lessons. But like, yeah, no, I think it's definitely really eye-opening when you grow boss, really close to the sun sometimes. And you're like, this is so sick, but that's also like really hard. And there's a reason why a lot of people quit. But we haven't. - Well, that's kind of, that's kind of, I think I was in between that transition about like what started from scratch. In a way, you know, with even my socials, right? And then now it's like, I'm working, I'm working with companies and events that throw these contests that ultimately, I think honestly have more money than the actual tour. Or like, or I feel like there's more of an outcome. There's more like, I don't know, marketing around the event and there's more sponsorships within the event. And I started working with brands individually who either support the event or want me to represent them at the event that I choose to go to, all these like women led event, like a supergirls and all women's surface. - I love that, by the way. - And it's like-- - Love the name. - So cute. - It's so cute, it's so cool, yeah. And it's not just surfing. There's like skating going on, there's a rollerblading. - Dude, I saw a rollerblading on the halfpipe. - I saw that. - I was like, watch your feet. - This money. - And I was like, shit. This girl was only coming in from a handstand. - Yeah, yeah. - Going in, I was like, wait, can I learn that? Like instantly, I was like, can I do that? Can I learn that? Might die. - I'll watch. - Yeah, after seeing how I skate, I'm like, I'm not really sure how that's gonna happen. - Oh, I watch it, I was so good. - Yeah, I was so good. - We'll have to do a surf one soon. - Yeah. - Yeah, let's do it. - Next time I come in the North Shore. I honestly like the second I laughed, I was like, I wanna come back. There's something so magical about the North Shore. I just love it so much. But just so everyone knows where to go when they wanna buy your swimsuits, I wanna know everything. Like, what was the name inspiration? How did you come up with the whole concept? - Okay, I think it was originally Tina's idea. Like, Tina's very entrepreneurial. She's like, she's very, she's business savvy, right? And so, she's like, we're gonna do a bikini business. I don't know what it's gonna be, but we're gonna figure it out. And I was like, you know what? It's a great idea, let's do it, you know? And she's like, she kinda took lead in it, but then we were trying to find a name and like with all the names taken for everything. - I know, yeah. - It was really hard and we were like, especially Hawaiian. - I feel like there's so many Hawaiian named brands, 'cause they're like, this is like Trump, like Aloha, something or whatever. But we were like, also, we were born and raised in Hawaii, but we're not Hawaiian. I will never say that I'm Hawaiian, right? Like, I'm a Hawaiian girl. - Yeah, yeah, so the locals accept you. - Yeah, yeah, I'd say so. - I think locals accept you if you just, if you accept their land as like, you respect it. - Sacred. - Yeah, and like, treat it the way it should be treated. - Then you're accepted, nothing's wrong with that, but it's a whole nother topic to get into. My mom is Japanese and my dad is French Italian, right? - Yeah, so we wanted to come over this somewhere that's like sustainable, we were like, we have to do something that's good for the ocean, we're surfers, we care about our ocean, we want to take care of our land, you know? - I love that. - And we're like, okay, so what do we name it? Like, we're trying to come up with these names, like Hawaiian names, we're not Hawaiian, are we allowed to like, not that we're not allowed to, but do we want to have a full Hawaiian name company? So, we're like coming up with ideas and I was like, why don't we like combine our ethnicities? They're not ethnicities, but like the way we're born and raised, right, our culture. So, we grew up dancing Hula for like 10 years, we were really like immersed in Hawaiian culture. That's for sure, our mom made sure that we were there. - Yeah. - And then we all speak fluent Japanese. - Wow. - Yeah, so we wanted to combine like our cultures, so we named it Al-Kai. So, A-O-K-I-A-O is blue in Japanese. - Oh, that's why it's pronounced Al. - Al, yeah, and then Kai is ocean in Hawaiian, right? You probably met a lot of Kai's in Hawaii. So, yeah, blue ocean to like keep our oceans clean. - Yeah, keep our oceans clean. - Keep our oceans blue, really. - Keep the oceans blue. - Yeah, I love that, that is so creative. - Yeah, but like everyone doesn't really know how to say the name of our brand, so we're like, wait, that's okay, it's still unique. I think it's so much cooler that it's unique to you guys. It means something to you, I'm always like, whenever I see people with tattoos, I'm like, that better be personal. - You know, I'm like, there's gotta be some lore behind it. - Yeah, I got to go a little deeper, you know? But I love that you guys did that, that's super cool. And I love that sustainable. - Yeah, I didn't know that. - Yeah, and it's like really, like when we say small business, it's out of our bedroom. - No, it's literally, yeah, like if you go on your socials, like you'll see, it's so cool. And I love you guys share all the BTS as well. I think that's what makes your brand so unique and special because I personally like, I love being emotionally invested in things in people. Like when I see a brand and I know who I'm supporting, I'm far more likely to buy it. - Yeah. - I just think there's like something really cool about that. And I think you guys do a really good job of like bringing people in and showing all the hard work that goes into it. And people know like they're spending their hard earned money on something that was hard earned. You know what I mean? - I guess so, I don't know. - Yeah, I mean, it's definitely until you own a small business, you don't appreciate the small business, right? And then now I'm like, oh, like it's more, maybe a lot of times more expensive, but now I'm like, I want to support them. Like I understand that now more than before. You know? So yeah, I appreciate that. That's awesome. - Well, I want to shift gears and do our little segment here on the show called Dear Athlete. And it's where we just give advice to the girlies, the guys about, I guess kind of from our own experience. So. - Like what kind of, what kind of advice here? - Well, how am I? - It's nothing crazy. So first question is, I had a bad injury and physically, I might be cleared, but mentally I'm terrified of getting hurt again. How do I trust myself and my body? - I think you just listened to it. I mean, I would, right? Like you don't want to like push yourself, 'cause I was doing that. I was pushing myself and physically I moved past my injuries, but mentally I didn't. I ended up having like a lot of stuff go on. Like I had to go to therapy. I had to, yeah, there was a lot. So I think it's like listen to your body, I guess. And sometimes it sucks listening to your body. Like you don't want to do it. - I know. - Like even when you're sick, you know, and you're like, I'm fine. - Yeah. - Oh yeah. - Just chill. - And on the flip side too, like listening to your body when you know that you can do it. Like if you're scared, like you know, they're saying like they're scared to push or to do something again after the injury. Like a lot of it, I think we forget like is mental and understanding like your body knew how to do it and that injury might be a fluke thing, right? Like especially in gymnastics, like this happens a lot. Like if you get injured on one specific skill, a lot of times like coaches have to completely scratch that skill, like they'll never do it again. Like I've had like teammates who have like gotten her on an event or on a skill and like they don't want to do it again 'cause it's like so mental. - Yeah. - And so I think just understanding like that injury could have happened on any skill, any event at any time. And it just happened to be that time. And I think just recognizing like that injury doesn't define you, but also you're in complete control of your body. So just be mindful, be careful, but also don't let fear like limit you. - Yes, yeah. - Yeah, yeah. - Okay, second, I'm absolutely terrified of the ocean. What are some ways I can build my confidence and quiet entries of thoughts? - Girl relatable, I get scared in the ocean. Only like when my feet don't touch the ground. - Oh, okay, like big. - I'm scared of the ocean. - Are you? - Yeah, I'm like I just feel so humbled in there. I know I'm just a visitor like it's so overwhelming and I think like big bod is a water too. Like when you're like out in the middle and you can't see the land. - No, I'm when I'm underwater. 'Cause I mean, we're on top of the water. When I'm underwater and you're deep and you're looking around and there's just water all around you and there's like nothing. - Oh, I'm like I'm gonna heep a duties. - Yeah. - I'm scared. - When you are scared of how do you like quiet? - Like what? - No, what do you scared, girl? - I feel like for me, I've noticed like, so I had really bad anxiety in the ocean. Which like my ego didn't really let me tell people this. I feel like I was like, because I grew up in a surfing family, I wasn't allowed to be scared of the ocean. Like all my siblings served except for my little sister and like my dad grew up surfing all over the world. And so like I just told myself like, oh you're not allowed to be scared. And it was because like obviously I grew up in the gymnastics gym, I didn't grow up in the water. And so I remember when I first, there was two instances. One, I went wakeboarding out in Norway with my family and we were on a fjord. And it was like, it's not the ocean. It's like jellyfish. And I don't really know what other creatures are down there. Maybe it's like big fish. I don't think anything crazy. But like, maybe a big sea creature, I don't know. But I remember having like a full blown panic attack, like waiting to go, like you have to like wait out in the water by yourself until the boat goes, right? - Yeah. - And I just start panicking. I'm like freaking the fuck out. And I was like, dad pull me in, pull me in, like, it was so weird. And then I realized like, oh I actually have a pretty weird fear of like the ocean. Or like not even the ocean, like just a big bod as a water. - And that's valid. - Yeah. And then I remember when I first started working with rebel cliff diving being so scared of that, like coming out and like, you know, like my panic attack happening or something and it being so embarrassing. Cause like what they're doing is so much and earlier than just being in a big body of water, right? And so I remember like panicking about that and then every single trippy got better. And so I feel like because I was forced to be in big bodies of water constantly with that job. And like, I had to kind of fake it till I made it. It almost like was exposure therapy. So I would probably tell you like just go on the water more because odds are like you're not, I don't know, like your fear is not real. It's all in your head. And like, I'm laughing because I'm only looking around because it's like, you want to water like every day. - No, the advice is like just get over it. - Yeah. - That's your advice. Like, I don't know, like, I don't think you should pay for therapy over it, but like, oh my God. Depends on that. If it's like crippling, you got, you broke up with your boyfriend, just get over it. I don't know, I just feel like, I don't know. Something that really helps me as my dad has been in the water pretty much like every day of his life since he was like 12 years old. And he's seen like a handful of sharks. - Yeah, yeah, so that helps me a lot. I'm like, okay, I don't go on the water that much. What are the odds that I actually am like eating by a shark? - I think it's just, yeah, I think it's like trust your skills and like, be a good swimmer. - I mean, get over it. - No, I mean, like, as even as a surfer, we're scared of the water. We're scared of the ocean, I guess I should say, right? And it's like, you can be the best, most skilled, but you can be the most skilled at anything. And you can still not have fear. - You can still fail at whatever you're doing, right? It doesn't make us perfect. And the ocean is like totally out of our control. - Yeah. - That's what makes surfing so interesting. Because I think it might be the only sport that there's not a controlled environment. - It's not a single part of it is controlled. - Yeah. - So, that's why we have so many good days and so many bad days. - Yeah. - So, yeah, like, I think every surfer will tell you that they almost drowned. Probably at one point in their lives or had an injury or something. Like your brother had his fin to space. And that's like such a common story. - Yeah. - It's so normal. - So crazy. - If you love it, I think you're gonna keep doing it. - Yeah. And I think also like, acknowledge the fear, but just again, like, do it scared. Like, I feel like I've been really leaning into that mantra recently. I've just like, there's so many things I've been having to do that's new in my life. And my manager actually said this and it really helped me, but it was like, just because it's new doesn't mean you're not gonna be good at it. And I was like, oh. - Yeah. - Okay. - Yeah. - That's an interesting take. - Or like, you don't have to be good at it in the beginning too. - No, that's another thing. - Like, it's like, yeah. - Just because it's new doesn't mean it like, has to be scary or like, you have to be like, perfect out of either. It's just like, it's new. And like, acknowledging that like, it's gonna be a lesson and it's an opportunity for growth. So I thought that was really, really cool. Last one. I am so competitive that if I don't win, I feel like I failed. How do I deeply care without letting results determine my self-worth? That one hits different. - Well, because it kind of, for me, I'm comparing it to surf, right? Like, that's my only competitive outlet that I know of. - For sure. - So like I just said about it being like, so many factors aren't involved in you. And you can be like, wait, what if I did this different or what if I did this? Yes, you can think of those moments and you can definitely reflect. - Yeah. - But not dwell on them, you know what I dwell. - Yes. - You know, but like, I think memory of a goldfish. - Yes. - Be a goldfish. - Oh my God. - I love that show. - But yeah, that's when I was like, oh, she's made it, by the way. - She's like, she made it. - She's so dumb. - No, that's a low key. - Yeah, so I think there's like so many factors as to like, insurfing especially that like, you're, it's not in your control, right? So to me, it's like, you can't be that, you can't be that hard on yourself. - I mean, I can totally relate to this because I think I went through my entire like, middle school, high school career, being, having that mentality alone. Like, being so unbelievably hard on myself and like holding myself to such an unrealistic standard every day at practice. And because it's just you, like, you have no one to blame it on. Like, we don't have outside environments to blame it. Like, we can't be like, oh, the ways we're shit. Or like, oh, my board is whatever, dented. Or like, I don't know. Like, I don't know what other factors play into it. But it's just like, for gymnastics, it's very controlled. It's the same shit every time. And so it's like, one, because it's an individual sport, you can't blame it on anyone and you can't blame on anything. And so I think for anyone that has a similar sport to that, I would say one, be a goldfish. But two, like, understand your worth is not tied to the results. You can still do a sport and be the worst one, but have the most fun. And I think that is a really cool thing. You can control your attitude. So like, understanding that your adjutes and your control, the results may not be how other people do is not in your control. That person may just have a better day than you, that specific day. Are you going to go home and cry about it and dwell on it for an entire week? You definitely shouldn't. Because at the end of the day, that was out of your control. And you can control, though, having a better attitude next time, preparing better, doing things that you know you can control to help the outcome. So yeah, I think just understanding like, your attitude is the one thing that you know you can always control and that helps a lot, I think. Yeah, in your life, I don't know. Well, I think also like, at this point in time with athletes and like, if you're going to be doing the athlete competitor route, like, I think a company wants to see you talk about your loss in a positive way. They usually interview both the winner and the loser a lot of times, right? And they want to be like, so what do you think? And if the loser's like, I'm out of here, whatever, you know, then you're not really supporting your career. You're your own career, but also the industry that you're in. So if you're not going to be positive about it, then I feel like, what are you doing it for? Yeah, right? If you're just like going to leave right away or just talk poorly of it or whatever, then like, you probably shouldn't be there. Like, don't be a sore loser. Yeah, and like, companies at this point in time want to support you as an individual more than your sport. Because you can get hurt tomorrow and it could be all over. But if you're, if you can advocate for your, is that the right word? If you can advocate for your sport and be a good role model, that has way more like And you can do that without doing your sport. Exactly. What we're doing literally right now. Yeah, you know what I mean Yeah, like I think that's a really cool thing. So yay, wait, this was so fun We'll actually we'll run it back when I come to Hawaii. How about that? Yeah, let's do it. Well, maybe we'll do a sports Yeah, I want to I want to try your flip stuff. Yeah, actually. I'm kind of scared You would have to well now that I have a gym on the North Shore, or you have to Like yeah, let's do it. I want to try on. We did it with Austin and it was a blast and with Michael. So you definitely have to well Comment if you want to see Sally learn gymnastics and teach me long boarding I wish you all the best and all your future endeavors can't wait to see what your future looks like. It's so bright It's 26th of me a great year. I'm so proud of you. Thank you Thank you so much for watching and I'll see you next Wednesday. Bye

Podcast Summary

Key Points:

  1. Sally Cohen grew up on Oahu’s North Shore, influenced by her parents—her dad as a surf photographer and her mom as a professional bodyboarder—who instilled a deep connection to the ocean and surfing.
  2. She began longboarding at a young age, shifting from shortboarding to longboarding due to its lower competition and greater accessibility, which made it a more sustainable and achievable path to professional success.
  3. Despite thriving publicly, Sally experienced burnout from the competitive, isolating, and toxic environment of professional surfing tours, where financial strain, lack of support, and personal insecurity took a toll.
  4. A severe injury from falling off a balcony during a surf event resulted in a compound fracture of her foot and a life-altering facial laceration, leading to a year-long recovery and significant emotional and physical challenges.
  5. During her recovery, social media became a vital tool, allowing her to build a supportive community, receive financial aid from followers, and gain visibility that helped her transition into a more authentic, sustainable career.
  6. She co-founded Aokai Swim with her sister to create functional, stylish, and affordable surfwear that empowers women to feel confident in the water.
  7. Sally shifted from being defined by competition to embracing a lifestyle-centered career, where she values authenticity, autonomy, and self-care over external validation.
  8. Her journey highlights how trauma, resilience, and community can transform a personal passion into a meaningful, financially viable, and self-directed brand.

Summary:

Sally Cohen’s journey from a competitive longboard surfer to a resilient, self-directed athlete and entrepreneur reveals the deep challenges and transformations inherent in pursuing a passion at a professional level. Growing up in a surf-centric environment with parents deeply involved in the sport, she developed a strong foundation in both surfing and the values of the ocean culture. She transitioned to longboarding for its accessibility and lower competition, allowing her to build a career without the intense pressure of shortboarding.

However, her professional experience on the World Long Board tour was marked by burnout—caused by isolation, financial strain, toxic competition dynamics, and a lack of support. A life-changing injury, where she fell from a balcony and suffered a compound foot fracture and facial laceration, became a turning point. The recovery was long, painful, and emotionally taxing, requiring surgery, hospital care, and a year without teeth.

During this time, social media became a lifeline, allowing her to build a loyal community of supporters who financially and emotionally rallied behind her. This shift enabled her to redefine her career: moving from competition-driven success to a lifestyle-based approach centered on authenticity, self-care, and autonomy. She co-founded Aokai Swim with her sister to create functional, stylish, and affordable surfwear, empowering women through confidence and access.

Sally’s story underscores how adversity, when met with resilience and community, can transform personal struggle into a sustainable, impactful brand that values well-being over performance. Her journey exemplifies how athletes can reclaim control of their careers, prioritize mental health, and build meaningful, inclusive brands rooted in authenticity.

FAQs

Growing up on the North Shore of Oahu, I was surrounded by surfing and my parents, who were both deeply involved in the sport—my dad as a surf photographer and my mom as a professional body boarder. This environment naturally led me to take up longboarding, especially after realizing it was less competitive and more accessible than shortboarding.

After breaking my foot and then suffering a serious facial injury from a board impact at a wave pool, I realized that the competitive pressure and lifestyle of touring had taken a toll on my well-being. The injury led to a reevaluation of my goals, shifting me from chasing results to focusing on personal fulfillment and sustainability.

Yes, I felt intense pressure to succeed, especially while on tour. The atmosphere was competitive and often toxic, with little support or community. I started to feel burnout, realizing that my passion had become a lifestyle that consumed me rather than nourished me.

Social media became a lifeline during my recovery. People reached out with support, sending money for my medical bills, and I was able to share my journey authentically. This built a community of followers who felt connected to my story and helped me regain confidence and purpose.

I stepped away from professional touring and shifted to a sustainable, self-directed path. I now focus on creating content, building my brand, and making money through partnerships and personal brand growth—not just through competition.

My sister and I started Aokai Swim to solve the problem of expensive, ill-fitting, and short-lived surfwear. We designed functional, comfortable, and stylish bikinis and tops that empower women in the surf community, combining practicality with confidence.

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