The conversation explores how American food trends are deeply rooted in historical scarcity and cultural aspiration. From wartime rationing to mid-century idealizations, food has always responded to economic and societal constraints. Desperation pies, water pies, and wartime fat collection demonstrate how people creatively adapted using available ingredients, turning scarcity into ingenuity. The rise of mid-century cookbooks like *Meals with Foreign Flair* and futuristic kitchen ads reflects a broader cultural shift where food became a symbol of status, leisure, and global connection. These trends often involved sanitized, standardized versions of foreign cuisine—like the 7-Up Sandwich Gardens—where authenticity was replaced with visual appeal and consumer fantasy. The wacky cake, born in the 1940s, exemplifies how simple, science-based recipes using everyday ingredients offered both novelty and a sense of accomplishment. Ultimately, the narrative reveals that food is not just sustenance but a mirror of societal values—shaped by necessity, innovation, and the desire to project identity through consumption. Whether through wartime rationing or postwar aspirational cooking, American food history shows a recurring pattern: people invent, adapt, and celebrate when they have few resources, making the most of what is available.
cottage cheese is just this glowing monolith you know doesn't matter whether you acknowledge it or
not welcome to you're wrong about the podcast where we ask what what what do you feel like
eating today um and sarah archer i lured you on here um as our kitchen correspondent
to talk with me about american food trends and we would each kind of just talk about a handful
of things that we personally like and are interested in because i think we're kind of a wash
in food trends at the moment and we're kind of at peak food trend because i feel like do you feel
like every time you're on social media someone's like let's try the viral
red hot sauce and i'm like i don't know what to do with that i don't know what to do with that
let's try the viral red sauce and i'm like let's try the viral red sauce and i'm like let's try the
recipe for a thing you've never heard of you're like oh yeah of course every time recipe i've
never heard of yeah right and in the olden days it took at least a few months for something
specifically a recipe to work its way through the newspaper and word of mouth and so on
and i just i love um trends in food as a way of learning about what people were going through
and continue to go through and almost hilariously repeating cycles and so we're going to talk about
that in a little bit but let's talk about what we're going to talk about in a little bit but let's
talk about what we're going to talk about in a little bit but let's talk about what we're going
to talk about in a little bit but let's talk about what we're going to talk about in a little bit
desperation pies and cake and so forth yeah i immediately love this and is it desperation
as in like the great depression or is it desperation in like more of an existential way
here's what's great right is that i've definitely always heard about like water pie and vinegar pie
exactly and ritz cracker pie ritz cracker mock apple pie which is which is mock apple pie yeah
which which was on the box for ritz crackers through the 90s apparently or until the 90s yeah
which i really like and i think it's a really good idea to do that i think it's a really good idea to
really like that they were like yeah we know you want to make the pie um you're desperate to make
but yeah i have always heard of them as depression pies but they are even more deeply within that
desperation pies because i think like the pies i just named were all being made well not ritz pie
because ritz crackers were invented and rolled out in 1934 i think they're they're a depression
cracker through and through but those pies are like desperation pies that people were also making
in the late 19th century um and also on the frontier which is very interesting oh that is
fascinating and one of the themes here is that i guess we're looking at two two trends that i don't
think are as in opposition as people sometimes act like they are which are desperation and
convenience they go together like peanut butter and chocolate they do and they taste good together
basically a mock custard pie where you use uh water instead of milk or cream and it is apparently
quite good i realized today that i should have made all these pies so i could tell you about it
with more accuracy yeah we can revisit that yeah let's go make the pie and come back and discuss
but tell me about what well first of all tell us who you are and your kind of work in the kitchen
arena and what you're going to tell us about today so my kitchen obsession is mostly is kind of the
decades of the 20th century and i have a special affection for the world of tomorrow and gadgets
and kind of american kitchen designers competing with the soviet union and kind of designing things
sort of at the soviet union and at the at this very moment i'm working on a talk because there
is a really cool exhibition uh opening soon at the museum of fine arts houston
that is all about atomic age food and it involves this like my god i know and it's
called miss archer i know i know so it's called mid-century menu oh my god that's the name of
the exhibition which is curated by the great misty flores who is a decorative arts historian who
normally is like a baroque and rococo person um so this is like she's moving far into the future
by doing this and there's a really cool mid-century house that is part of the museum of
fine arts houston campus called the rienzi house and it's a sort of post-war luxurious home
that was donated and the thing that's interesting is that the people who lived there collected like
18th century porcelain so it's this kind of post-war like 60s house that that's full of
rococo decorative arts and then the exhibition is in there so there's like a table full of fake food
that misty flores had made for this exhibition i want to go wait how long is this for what are
the dates here it is through july 31st 2026
oh thank god all right we have lots of time yeah so there's so there's bags of time
and the rienzi house has a historical cookbook collection so that was kind of the genesis of
this like you know like let's let's explore sort of you know what this would have looked like if
you were sort of entertaining in 1960s houston at that level i published a book in 2018 called
the mid-century kitchen which is sort of more about not so much about food but more about
appliances right sort of appliances design and the transformation of the kitchen over
time well you can't have a lot of the food without the appliances that's very true continues to be
true yeah and a lot of it is about the advertising and kind of mythos around the kitchen so it's sort
of less a literal study of kind of what everybody's kitchen was actually like and more a survey of like
the ideal kitchen and kind of how that was marketed to american consumers and what it meant and what
was the ideal kitchen at that time and and do you have a sense i guess there's like our culture is a
little bit more open-minded maybe today but at least from like you know from an anecdotal perspective
or whatever kind of sense you have of this like is there an ideal kitchen today like what do those
look like to you so i have kind of a working theory about this i would say in terms of the
post-war era so the kitchen historically had been it was a site of work and up until about the 1920s
it tended to be either just things in your dwelling that you use to heat up food and
water because you maybe lived in one room or two rooms or you were you were wealthy and you had
people to do that for you so that was a room that you didn't go into so there wasn't really this the
idea of the kitchen as a place where you hang out right is a relatively new idea well or i guess in
the sense that maybe in the like if we're talking about you know let's say you and i are are settling
on a farm in connecticut and i'm imagining a scenario described in one of my favorite books
more work for mother
mm-hmm
and we would like basically live in one room probably as like you know small farmers and
kind of like cottage industrialists and people like you know kind of doing a lot of little
different kinds of work here and there and we would probably have like a hearth with a fire
with like a big pot or a cauldron i guess on top of it we would be having some stew probably
i mean is that fair to say more or less you might have a cast iron stove you might have two or three
rooms and you might have a kitchen and you might have a kitchen and you might have a kitchen and
rooms nice and you might hang out in the room that's most warm which is also going to be the
room where you cook food so in as much as it's sort of it's a marker of how class in america
has changed and what we expect and want for ourselves and so there's kind of um the way
that kitchen technology was presented to computer to computers to the way that you see this is this
is the result of ai um the way that kitchen technology was presented to computers to computers
was presented to consumers starting in about the 1930s and then really taking off in the 1950s
was that you could almost jump a couple of notches on the class ladder and the way that they
illustrated this was to show let's say what julia child would call the servantless cook this this
sort of new thing in the world like a person who entertains and is well to do enough to entertain
and have the kind of leisure time to do so and the money but isn't wealthy enough to have staff
and this is again this is kind of a way to show that you're not wealthy enough to have staff
a new category of person and so and that you're like throwing a dinner party and having and like
being your own staff in a way and this is maybe like part of the consolidation of the middle class
and post-war america exactly so this is the consolidation of the middle class and so the
idea that you can then a lot of the advertising for kitchen appliances like remember that movie
that we we watched in a previous episode it was a sort of industrial short for um i want to say it
was it was from motorama but it was the sort of applied
science fantasia where like a masked man yes whisks a woman away to show her all the kind of
incredible yeah you know it was like frigidaire well it was like they were presented to women as
if they were cars and it's interesting because it feels like the the consolidation of the middle
class apparently involved women pulling off even more stuff yes basically that it's like
the woman the protagonist is shown taking up hobbies and so the implicit message of that is
that you have appliances doing stuff for you that you used to have to do like you can talk
to a woman and you can talk to her and you can talk to her and you can talk to her and you can
talk to her and you can talk to her and you can talk to her and you can talk to her and you can
kind of leave things to some extent on autopilot and that that will free you up to do things like
play tennis or play golf you know kind of lounge read just like sort of do something else and sort
of become a lady of leisure in a way that would have been unthinkable for somebody from your
background a generation before oh it's called design for dreaming i found it it's 1956 it's a
promotional short film for general motorsports it's a short film for general motorsports it's a
and it's all futuristic kitchen but a masked man whisks her away like like happens sometimes
to all of us.
I dreamt last night
The moon was so bright
It melted the walls away
And it wasn't alarming
When I saw Prince Charming
Come into my bedroom and say
Let me persuade you
To come to the place
Where tomorrow meets today
Ooh, thank you.
It sounds very exciting.
May I come just as I am?
And shows her
the kitchen of the future.
And the idea is that things,
the kitchen of the future
is so advanced
that it's kind of like
you're entering like a lab at IBM
and everything kind of happens
automatically for you
and cakes appear
and it's magical.
Just like a man
You give him a break
And you end up in the kitchen
Baking a cake
But this was a kitchen
Like none I'd seen
Put a card in the door
Put a card in the slot
And onto the screen
Pops a picture of just how your dish will look
Plus all the ingredients you need to cook
Then crucially, the woman is freed up
to do all this other stuff.
No need for the bride to feel tragic
The rest is push-button magic
So whether you bake or broil or stew
The Frigidaire kitchen does it all for you
Don't have to be chained to the stove all day
Just set the timer and you're on your way
The Frigidaire kitchen does it all for you
Tick, tock, tick, tock
I'm free to have fun around the clock
And so that's the part of it
that I find most interesting,
the idea that it's unthinkable
that you would do other stuff like anyway.
Like there's the idea that you would, you know,
read books or play tennis
or be involved in the PTA or something.
Mm-hmm.
Well, and also we're seeing her
like using a cabinet like a computer,
but also a computer that doesn't exist yet
because she's inserting a punch card
and then like a color image of a cake is coming up
and it's like, you guys were bluffing.
But you know what's crazy though?
I feel like we could do that now.
Yeah, we should do that now
and we should do it with index cards.
People would like it.
I don't know why we're not doing that.
It's just, yeah.
Like, what are we waiting for?
Yeah.
And now she's got like a rotating
like cake display cabinet, like a diner.
I mean, this is basically,
this is basically promising to automate cooking for her.
Right.
And now she's kind of switching off to the leisure area.
So tennis.
She's twirling a golf club like a baton.
Exactly.
Which seems dangerous.
Which seems odd.
But also it's like she's skipping around really fast,
like aggressively leisureizing in different forms of leisure.
And it's like, whatever happened to
To actual leisure.
Lying around for three hours.
I know.
It's very active as leisure goes.
It's very like skippy.
Yeah.
Jeepers.
I'm exhausted.
The kitchen of tomorrow is calling me.
My cake is ready.
I love her.
I love her and her bangs.
I think what's fascinating about the food trends
is one of the things I touch on in the book
is that there is also a form of almost like virtual travel
that happens because, you know,
there's this vogue for, in air quotes,
"foreign food" starting in the late 50s and early 60s.
And it coincides with the beginning of the jet age.
Oh, OK.
Tell us about that.
So this is kind of a nifty kind of parallel.
So the Boeing 707, not to like--
Oh, boy.
--you know, complicate the vibes by bringing up Boeing.
No, I love the vibes.
--premiers in 1958.
That was kind of the big high profile new jet.
And it basically-- it's--
jet engines that replaced propeller planes.
So if you-- there was tourism, and there absolutely
were people going.
But if you were to fly, say, from like New York to London
or New York to Paris in, you know, 1952,
that would have taken you somewhere
between 12 and 15 hours.
Jet engines cut that about in half.
So what we're used to, where like going
from the East Coast of the US to Europe
is roughly like six, seven, eight hours,
something like that, that starts to be true in late 50s
and early 60s.
It is still very expensive.
So if maybe like--
like 1% of the population was traveling to Europe
by propeller plane and like reenacting
the scene from Funny Face, walking
down the steps of the Louvre every, you know,
once or twice a year, then a few years later in the jet age,
it's still a tiny percentage.
It just means that it's kind of more upper middle class people
rather than strictly just wealthy people.
So upper middle class people are going to Europe.
They are taking vacations in Hawaii, which
in 1959 becomes a US state.
They are engaging in the fantasy of a nearby Paris,
a paradise like Acapulco.
They are, you know, visiting the Caribbean.
And like all of this creates an interest and a buzz
in the larger sort of American psyche
because you can experience a version of it,
like a mediated version of that, by either going to Disney World
or going to a World's Fair.
And you can do both of those things by, you know,
going to New York or going to Florida.
And when you do that, you'll encounter, let's say,
you know, the pavilion from Thailand
and maybe get your first taste of a version
of Thai food for the, you know, the first time ever
in your entire life in 1965.
Or you can visit Disney World and go to, you know,
the Polynesian Resort and experience
a kind of fantasia of South Pacific culture, which
it needs--
we don't need to say this, but of course,
it is extraordinarily mediated and, like, kind
of constructed of stereotypes.
But I want to draw your attention to--
can I send you some images?
Yeah, absolutely.
Are you familiar with the International San
which Gardens?
No, I assume that they're not gardens
full of sandwich-bearing bushes.
But I sure was hoping that they were for a sec.
I was picturing that.
That's what I was hoping, too.
But so this was at the 1964-1965 World's Fair in Queens.
And the 7-Up Pavilion.
And 7-Up was not quite as high profile as Pepsi.
It was kind of a third banana in terms of soda.
But--
I mean, let's be honest.
They still are.
They still are.
But what a banana.
Exactly.
But it's a great banana.
So take a peek at this image and maybe
describe what we're seeing.
I would love nothing more.
OK.
So first, we have a beautiful sign that has a little arrow.
It says, "Entrance to the 7-Up International Sandwich
Gardens."
The International Sandwich Gardens.
And it's a garden where you eat international sandwiches.
And they're all on oval bread.
And so they're like the space sandwiches in 2001
in "A Space Odyssey" a little bit.
They're uniform.
And so we have the sandwiches represented.
And there's like four for each region,
which is for totaling 16 international sandwiches,
which I think is pretty good.
Yeah, which is incredible.
Northern Europe, the Pacific, the Mediterranean,
and the Americas.
Choose one of these four trays, four delicious sandwiches
on each.
All the 7-Up you want, $1.50 per tray plus tax.
We should compete with the Russians again.
It brought out the best.
It brought out the best in us, at least in terms of sandwiches.
Yeah, at least in terms of sandwich culture.
Well, what do you think of also about the kind of advances?
Because just with you talking about the jet age,
I'm like, right, between 1949 and 1969,
we first made these huge leaps in commercial passenger
airlines.
And then we went to space.
And then we went to the moon.
And so you can really forgive science fiction writers
for being like, the year is 1991.
The planets have taken over the planet.
And only 14 humans remain.
This is their story.
Well, actually, it's good that you brought up space.
Because here is-- OK, so I have-- this
is kind of like I'm working toward like a grand theory
of sandwich logic.
So you know how in-- are you a Star Trek person?
Have we talked about this?
Yes.
I haven't watched a ton of Star Trek.
But I like Star Trek ambulantly.
And I like being surrounded by Star Trek people.
I feel very safe amidst them.
We're very cozy.
And I think one of the things that I have always
found really funny and really entertaining
about like the original series and I guess to some extent
like the '90s reboots, less so nowadays because I feel like
they're kind of getting more--
they're more far out in terms of the science in a way that's
really cool.
But it's kind of past the golden age
that I would consider to be like basically you go--
you know, you're on a spaceship centuries from now.
You go to a distant galaxy.
And the alien life that you meet are basically like--
like people with like a very severe haircut or like shoulder
cuts.
Do you know what I mean?
And it's kind of like--
Humans from the Ren Faire.
Exactly.
Where they're like, well, you got your Vulcans.
And then you got your Romulans, who basically
look like Vulcans.
But--
It's like, oh, well, they have different eyebrows.
So they're-- or they have like a slightly different nose.
Yeah.
But we ran out of latex.
And so they're a Romulan.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Totally.
So what I love about this and that if you think about this,
let's like put this together and have
it hold hands with the Sandwich Garden.
Ooh.
So you are in New York City.
You're American.
You can point to sort of any point on the globe.
And every other place will turn to you and say, yes,
we have a version of exactly the kind of sandwich
that you're used to that is made with like, you know,
Russian ingredients or Vietnamese ingredients
or, you know, whatever ver--
and I think it is fair to say that most cultures on Earth
have a version of like a hand pie of some kind,
like a sort of portable--
I, too, have-- have--
have pies to talk about, yeah.
Right, so we're gonna link this to pies, but you know,
there are pasties patties you know tacos there are versions of this all over the world but they
are almost certainly not versions of this where everybody on planet earth gets like bread from an
american supermarket that's oval shaped and puts like the exact same amount of stuff on it yeah so
in the same way that there's this idea that you you can kind of go anywhere in the world and every
alien you meet will sort of speak east coast english and kind of be more or less humanoid
this idea that you can almost in air quotes travel sort of right an experience of a taste
or a version of someplace exotic but what you're actually experiencing is basically like a creative
director who works for seven up or better homes and gardens kind of conjuring an idea of something
that's japanese or right you know exotic in some other way and i think that that idea of foreignness
you can sort of as a commodity i think that that american access
partially because we've had thank god so much immigration in i'm gonna be in my soapbox just
for a second we have wonderful food from around the world made by people who are from the world
right so we're not kind of stuck in you know making kind of like esoteric sandwiches that
are based on a thought experiment but so i feel like the travel boom the sort of version of the
travel boom that most americans could not partake in because it was still expensive it's like now
it's still expensive to travel but
this was a sort of instead of being on tiktok or instagram and kind of looking at people posting
from their vacation on the adriatic you had this version of it you could kind of bring
quote-unquote foreign food into your kitchen if you bought a cookbook like meals with foreign
flair well and then there's something interesting too about the fact that like that food like is
both like a colonizing agent right where it's like very painful and often profitable how food
traditions are like destroyed and
consumed yes and imitated by people who don't understand them and yet at the same time i think
there's like this inevitable thing that happens you know it happens across all different kinds
of cultural lines but i think it's just a thing that happens with food where it gets adapted
by whoever is interested in it based on what they're familiar with and feel comfortable with
and what they have at the store and what's available and so this this thing where you can
say oh that's this is wiping out culture and it's oppressive and it's like
yeah but also like we also just kind of like run home with ideas and don't understand it but i want
to try something out and that's cute that we do that too it depends i think it depends on the on
it depends on the motives i think really um but yeah these sandwiches are all like i think anyone
from any of these cultures would be like like what what um because for example another example
scotland is sliced lamb with minted dressing on
scotch barley bread and you're like what about a scotch egg what about you know there's
limitless canada baked ham with the pickled dressing on cheddar cheese bread it's like sure
that's as canadian as canada pie exactly exactly and then what's oh in the usa sliced turkey with
cranberry dressing on whole wheat bread something that no american eats on a daily basis but that
makes you think of thanksgiving so yeah it's fun it's all over the place and it also does does this
kind of visually it sort of standardizes um instead of like an idiosyncratic kind of things
around the world sort of appear in different shapes and forms and might be one you know
something might be a stew and the next thing might be a hand pie everything is a sandwich so
it kind of uses the sandwich as like an organizing principle to give to sort of snap the entire world
into a grid where like everything do you know what i mean like you can kind of find um yeah
to put the whole world between two slices of
bread if you will exactly if you will if you will and then put an incomprehensible dressing on it
i have a question for you yeah that i feel like i hear this referenced a lot and it sounds like
it could be a myth to me i might have even asked this before so if i have i'm sorry but the idea
is that cake mixes were invented american housewives didn't want to buy them because they
didn't feel like they were doing enough and so they didn't need an egg but the cake mix people
were like okay add an egg
then you'll feel like you're baking so i have heard this too and i feel like i've heard people
repeat that is that true i have heard that this is a myth okay but that the myth itself is
instructive because it kind of shows that there's an attachment to the idea that people need to do
this that like the egg kind of like women want to bake ultimately it's like their biological destiny
to bake in like a labor-intensive way so i think that's like you're talking about the kind of like
betty crocker
some people were meant to bake some people were meant to cook everything in a rice cooker and they
just throw it all in there and see what what the fuck happens exactly it's usually i mean it cooks
it you know one way or the other totally totally yeah so i think that's a super instructive example
and that it's kind of something that's taken on a life of its own in the culture and that there's
like this what is it that we want to be true and like why why do we want that to be true
and what do you think we do want to be true well i have to say i think the the whole sort of like
egg myth
ethos and the idea that people want to the egg psychodrama the egg psychodrama that people want
to do things from scratch is people have spent many years making doing things by hand making
things by hand cleaning cooking etc all that is time that our ancestors would never get back
right it's all you know we had generations of women particularly before us who did nothing but
that and didn't have a choice and i think the idea that there's an attachment to it and that people
like it which is not to say that everybody hates it because i think people actually do
right i mean as with everything some people like it some people do exactly um the idea that it's
kind of a widespread desire is almost a way of making the lives of women of the past seem less
sad because it means that maybe they were do you know what i mean like maybe they wanted to
maybe they wanted to forego education and travel no you're right god that's really interesting just
a theory this is just a this is just a hypothesis if you will no i i believe it though i mean it
makes i mean and multiple things can be true you know or true to different degrees but that feels
accurate to me and i mean that well okay so this connects to um can i tell you about one of my
cakes yes okay so well this is really the cake of the hour and and so this begins with peg bracken
of course who we've talked about many times oh my god of course
peg and with 1960s the i hate to cook book oh so good which is a book of recipes for women
who hate to cook and it has a very short dessert section which regrettably is subtitled because
you're fat enough anyway oh god jesus christ yeah oh no oh peg oh no and you know i choose
to let that one go by but you don't have to uh i know it's that's a tough one but it's
a different time
yeah but it has a recipe for what peg bracken calls cockeyed cake
and so this is this chocolate cake that is deceptively simple i made it i was amazed at
how it turned out like so when you you made it you you liked how it tasted no i loved it because
it it doesn't have any dairy or any eggs whoa and it's this sort of novelty recipe where you mix
dry ingredients and then you poke three holes you know in your like flour mixture and then i think
into one you put five tablespoons of oil some recipes say six into one you put a little bit
of vanilla and into the third you put some vinegar and it has baking soda and so the vinegar and the
soda combine and leaven it while it's cooking and also you can make it right in the pan that
you bake it in that's genius wow and it is because this
is like very light fluffy moist delicious chocolate cake that apparently many many
people who've talked about it um in newspapers starting in 1944 which is when recipes for this
started turning up and in newspapers around the country um and in canada we're like that sounds
wacky and then they make it and they're like oh my god this is so good and they're like and
they're amazed and it's like a trick and so it's more commonly known as wacky cake i'm gonna try
it now i'm inspired to try it that's like it's it sounds like a miracle it's fantastic and i think
there's an interesting psychological difference between wacky cake and cake mix because if you
make something with a cake mix which is operating on about the same principle although it does have
an egg then you're like oh whatever it's just cake mix but if you make a wacky cake you're just
throwing together a few dry ingredients and then adding a few liquids mixing it together and baking
it but you've performed a miracle
because you put the dry ingredients together it's like you've performed science like you've done
science in your and it's kind of like this incredible kind of chemical reaction that
is just with stuff in your pantry it's kind of cool to be able to do that right and so i feel
like there's like the need to do that if you want to impress people because like one of the things
that it seems like people have kind of always been reluctant to admit about cake mix is that
a good cake mix takes a lot of time and a lot of time and a lot of time it takes a lot of time
taste about the same as like a good homemade cake.
yeah a cake mix is fine it's it's absolutely fine yeah I mean there's like different kinds of cake
and many that you can't get with a mix but if you just I mean like cake is cake yeah and it's also
one of those things that I think in a strange way I mean I personally I am not a fan generally of
kind of very fancy like flourless cakes like that kind of doesn't really do it for me like I really
want like birthday cake like that's what that would be you know what I mean yeah I want like
the Duncan Hines slash wacky cake kind of a cake Duncan Hines like frosting from a tub is like
which and because I think that's kind of like as an adult you don't have that a ton like there's
not a ton of scenarios when that and if you don't have kids there's not like cupcakes happening all
the time but if I do ever make something like that it is really good I'll take that over like
a fancy pants you know New York Times recipe section cake oh yeah I also wanted to mention
I do really enjoy the New York Times
cooking sections email subject lines I've never cooked a single recipe they send me but it's
always like you open your email you know and it's like nuclear armageddon urgent your identity has
been compromised and then the New York Times is like turkey cutlet razzmatazz and you're like oh
well that sounds good it is very the New York Times food juxtaposed with cherry stone clams
or the clam at the end of the day and then the New York Times food juxtaposed with cherry stone clams
exactly that like on the one hand we're living a life where we have time to contemplate like
clam typologies and like leisure and on the other hand like we might be going to World War III like
that both of the but that I mean honestly that's what the 60s were like too well that's a good
point and and then as now we were fucking obsessed with our food and our houses yep and that's kind
of nice that we're holding hands across time with with people from who are like in bomb shelters
la la la
I'm gonna get really into design if all of this is gonna get blown up I gotta get it looking
perfect gotta get it looking absolutely perfect and then or recreating it underground to for the
for the you know and to be clear I'm laughing because I'm doing exactly that I'm not not doing
that that's not a laugh of duration that's a laugh of oh my god I'm doing that same thing with my
life and so well okay so the wacky cake starts showing up in 1944 oh so it's wartime it's it's
war it's like rationing okay exactly and we'll tell us a little bit about that well I mean my
understanding is that wartime food was designed to basically it was a lot of workarounds it was
kind of make do not unlike the Civil War too there were sort of like innovations and right
you know ways to kind of like use a cut of meat that you wouldn't ordinarily and you could save
up your ration coupons to buy you know a piece of steak and but it was sort of not the kind of thing
that you could have all the time my dad was old enough to remember he was a little kid during
World War II so he actually remembered the food what does he remember about that so he remembered
having something called salmon loaf which I mean it was he described as being kind of like spam but
it was made out of salmon and I don't know whether that's something that you could buy off the shelf
or something that my grandmother made but the idea was that you're kind of using like every
little bit and kind of gelatinizing it and making it into a sliceable entity well it does seem that
you have this kind of you know you have depression recipes and then also wartime recipes where meat
and and sugar and fats were being rationed and you could have like a limited amount you know
per household and so there's a lot of meat stretching recipes and a lot of like you know
using breadcrumbs or using oatmeal using a starch of some kind or potato I mean and also like you
know you kind of like you need breadcrumbs for meatballs so it makes sense because kind of like
you know upping the starch quantity or the ratio it's kind of like you know like you're kind of like
upping the starch quantity or the ratio you're kind of changing the ratio and that basically
and I think I don't believe they had a victory garden I I could be wrong about this because
I do remember actually my grandmother who grew up on a farm saying that she didn't really understand
why anyone would grow something that you couldn't eat like she didn't really understand flower
flower gardens like she like just didn't it wasn't anti just didn't understand it you know it was a
lot of like shelf-stable stuff and mac you know macaroni and cheese figured being like you know
beefaroni like a lot of the sort of stuff that we now associate with like like young kid food
is my understanding is that it was kind of perfected as a genre during the war and also
I imagine in part due to advancements in you know food preservation technology due to the needs of
the troops in world war ii yeah and I think like I think I learned in a carmen san diego that canned
food was innovated due to wartime needs interesting well that's also there's a great book called the
combat ready kitchen which we can link to in the notes that is a whole history of like
food innovations in wartime kind of throughout history that sounds great anastasia marx de
salcedo I wanted to to double check this to make sure I was getting it right so so combat ready
kitchen is great it's like super fascinating kind of a lot of the innovations in preservation
packaging you know kind of understanding what people needed in terms of nutrition
all of that stuff and so that eventually filters into
I mean a lot of the technology that we have even now for keeping things shelf stable originates in
that time that's fascinating well I have a couple things to show you oh good based on
our adventures in wacky cake because one of the things about it that you might remember
is that it calls for only about five tablespoons of oil and so something that you know people who
aren't scholars of world war ii because they read the molly books might not know
is that um during world war ii people were also instructed to collect fat yes and donate it to
wartime needs because it was it was useful I have a short produced by disney um that's going to
explain it amazing wait okay first I'm showing you a poster so tell me what you see there okay
I am seeing save waste fats for explosives take them to your meat dealer there's a hand like a
manicured hand holding a sort of cast iron skillet pouring what looks like rendered fat into
an inferno from which it looks like bombs are exploding
basically so from the kitchen to the battlefield exactly like
in in two easy steps take them to your meat dealer that is that is an interesting command
exactly exactly um
okay and then I sent you a link to the short and we're gonna watch this together
so out of the frying pan and into the firing line
wow a walt disney production in technicolor distributed and exhibited under auspices of
the war activities uh all right it cut to some really beautiful looking
bacon and eggs which mini is making and pluto who is smelling the beautiful bacon smell
isn't it weird to realize that mini is an immortal being yeah I know he has a pet
don't throw away that bacon grease housewives of america one of the most important things you can
do is to save your waste kitchen fats bacon grease meat drippings frying fats we and our allies need
billions of pounds of fat to help win the war so it is not pleased for fats make glycerin
and glycerin makes explosives every year two billion pounds of waste kitchen fats are thrown
away those idiots and what's cool is it kind of looks like a norman belghetti's patriot radio
the radio that's in the the cartoon oh yeah oh yeah I see yes I mean the visuals are really good
a skillet of bacon grease is a little munich
I love how literal it is fat dripping off meat and
turning into an actual and they're just exploding a german ship yeah yeah exactly
whoa
your pound of waste fat will give some boy at the front an extra clip of cartridges
and then we see a picture of mickey mouse who is at war
pour your waste kitchen fats in a clean wide mouth can
that's right not a glass jar or paper bag please strain the fats through a kitchen sieve so this
thing of like collecting fat in a coffee can feels very familiar like this is something people did for
ages well yeah then it's also I guess something you would do to have you know have fat around
yeah fat except for cooking needs and such and also not put it down the drain because it's not
good for plumbing not even for household bomb making right or even just to throw away just
you know eventually all in one unit coins okay ketchup
ketchup can be paid in sausage
pluto is now happy about the whole war effort and he's flying a little american flag off of his tail
save waste fats to make explosives
look for the official insignia in your meat dealer's window
oh this is incredible technicolor you gotta go to the official fat collecting station wow
the end so anyway these are the the circumstances under which the wacky cake was born
so this is fascinating so that this explains exactly why you you needed to kind of find like
let's find some ingredients that they don't need to sink axis boats right specifically and i guess
vinegar and baking soda works yeah in this case you can use vegetable oil which is also what you
what you use generally when you're baking with a cake mix yeah wow what a beautiful thing it's
really and i love the colors it's very like what is technicolor yeah i mean you gotta have your
your war propaganda and technicolor or else what's the point of all the innovation
but it's i mean it is it's interesting to think about american food trends as something shaped
by scarcity because i think if you look at american history
it does seem like there are these almost unceasing waves of boom and bust yes and it seems like maybe
some of the most enduring inventions and the ones that we end up liking the most are the ones that
people come up with when they don't have access to the things that they're used to or when we have
to innovate or when we have to figure out how to make something out of out of almost nothing
yeah because it kind of it uh spurs a kind of inventiveness and kind of out of the box thinking
that is unusual would you like to talk about tv dinners i can
and i'm thinking of like the international frozen meals thing that you sent me
oh do you mean foreign flair yes i mean foreign flair okay because that's not frozen actually
could you want to look at the cover of that yeah that would be great so here's the cover
and i chose an interior spread and this is published in 1963 which is the same year that
the french chef premieres on wgph boston interestingly and better homes and
gardens cookbooks are like they're in every secondhand store you've ever been in like
there's the kind of red and white check covered binder cookbook that's the standard and then they
published a ton of the like dozens and dozens of these kind of more slim volumes that were you know
like hors d'oeuvres or desserts or christmas cookies or meals for two and it was interestingly
they're not individually authored so i did a little digging into this and the better homes and gardens
um sort of creative authoring and i think it's a really good book and i think it's a really good
book and i think it's a really good book and i think it's a really good book and i think it's a really good
office in des moines iowa and part of meredith publishing we're just cranking these out and
i think there's a case to be made that they're almost more like decorating magazines than they
are cookbooks yeah which certainly happens today as well it happens absolutely today because if
you like describe what we're seeing on the cover with meals with a foreign flair yeah and okay so
meals with a foreign flair it has the title and big letters and like this big i would say like
not probably technically technicolor
but technicolor feeling like very vivid hues yeah photo on the front of this kind of buffet laid out
of the foods that you're going to be able to make in here presumably most of which do look pretty
bland and like broad interpretations on and also it's like foreign foreign flair what flair oh you
know yeah exactly just foreign um 100 recipes from 18 countries main dishes desserts bread salads
prize souvenirs from around the world and i think it's a really good book and i think it's a really
good book and i think it's a really good book and i think it's a really good book around the world
and then you open it you sent me a couple pages it says around the world a la carte
italy sweden india and it's again like lovely pictures of these like fairly ambitious spreads
that make sense as something that's being sort of written in haste recipe-wise right and it feels
like you would it makes sense to me that you might have it kind of out as a way of showing
the kind of person who you were and that you were you know interested in a new type of cooking also
do you remember the madman episode where betty draper does like an international buffet i have
not seen madman oh you haven't seen madman oh no it's so good terrible so there's a season okay so
the episode is called a night to remember this is if you want to get into it it's season two episode
eight and betty draper for context is a very glamorous like brin mar educated pretty former
model who's married to our protagonist don draper the ad man and they have a house in austin i think
and so there's a a cocktail party or a dinner party in which she decides to basically cook as
though from this cookbook it's there's i think there's sort of uh dutch beer heineken there's
you know different kind of i think she makes rumaki so there's a kind of um like around the
world sort of set of hors d'oeuvres and foods and it turns out that this she has unknowingly
shopped at the local supermarket where don's ad agency was doing an experiment
sort of putting different kind of like international foods in key areas like end caps to
see if like educated consumers would do and so she was the exact kind of like client that they were
imagining and it worked and so then she gets she's furious at him because she feels humiliated
because everybody at the party is like oh you're experimenting on your wife and in fact i mean
essentially they don't mention this cookbook but this cookbook basically is like this episode the
book huh and it's more about
signaling to your guests that you have gone you know it may be 1962 or three you have
leapt beyond fancy dishwasher and nice vacuum cleaner to exotic for imported foreign and she's
somebody who graduated from a seven sisters college so there's this kind of aspirational
idea that this you know it's a housewife who's really more like an educated hostess
yeah and also that you may no longer be in the workforce but you're like still of the
world exactly you are so you are in your house but you are of the world and so the cookbook
allows you to and again the cookbook is very similar in content and kind of graphic design
and tone to like the sandwich garden like it's it's more sophisticated than the sandwich garden
but it's kind of similar to let's say like the world's fair food pavilions where you can sample
you know tapas and thai food and and it's kind of sanitized in some way for an american audience
and also it's as much the around the world
as a a la carte spread that we looked at it's using um very attractive serving pieces like
the one from sweden there's this kind of cool mid-century ceramic bird on a stick and a like
a plate full of very nice looking apples and then meatballs and beans in black and white striped
casseroles which are very chic antique trivets and little trays right they're beautiful place
settings and it's like a stage managed kind of a thing exactly so this is very much
like you're in the department store and it's you know new chic fondue pots from france like being
sold on a version of foreignness that's more about kind of stage managing than actual you know
exploring pardon me i mean having a rich cracker that sounds so good is there does the box have
recipes on it for like mock apple pie or like rumaki or anything not anymore but it should it
should yeah
and it's mock apple pie just basically like solid ritz crackers and sugar no you make like a mix
cure here let's find a recipe but you gotta make it um so depression era mock apple pie uses ritz
crackers lemon juice cream of charter to perfectly mimic the taste of apples sugary syrup poured over
whole crackers creates a soft fruit like filling so those so the depression version has no fruit
it is purely sugar lemon juice cream of charter cinnamon and ritz crackers to kind of mimic the
look and feel and taste of pieces of apple so that's that's rough like that that sounds like
it might be kind of rough but a ritz cracker crust i mean i mean maybe it's good i don't know
it's supposed to be very good and i mean the thing with these recipes too is i think that
they wouldn't have caught on in the way that they did if they weren't good that's a good
point because people do still make it maybe not to everyone's standards but i mean i want to make it
it's kind of like when if you when you were a kid did you ever have those like stouffer's spaghetti
and meatballs frozen like the the frozen dinners no but like we all have some version of that
you know and it's those would just that would be just i would sort of say like your stouffer's
spaghetti and meatballs it is not what you would expect or or recognize as spaghetti and meatballs
in a restaurant or if somebody made it for you like it's its own strange entity but it's not bad
let me read to you a little bit from um mfk fisher's how to cook a wolf which was published in
42 originally and is about kind of this question of how do you how do you feed yourself and others
when things are scarce basically yeah um and she writes this is an introduction when it was
reissued in the 50s there are very few men and women i suspect who cooked and marketed their
way through the past war without losing forever some of the nonchalant extravagance of the 20s
they will feel until their final days on earth the kind of culinary caution
butter no matter how unlimited is a precious substance not
lightly to be wasted meats too and eggs and all the far-brought spices of the world take on a new
significance having once been so rare and that is good for there can be no more shameful carelessness
than with the food we eat for life itself and i feel like that also brings up one of the merits of
box cake mix which is that it's shelf stable and it's often extremely cheap and if it's not cheap
it goes on sale yep you know because you can still buy a box cake mix for a dollar and you don't have
- Right, exactly. - And it won't go bad.
- Yeah. - So I think for people who. this is something i remember noticing a lot about like spending time with my grandmother who was an
adult during the depression is that this is my dad's mom that she would do things like rinse and
reuse paper towels and she didn't have to like she was she was not like paper towel deprived but what
if all the paper towels go away tomorrow again exactly what if they all go away and we're
collecting fat for bombs and there's you know it just i think it was so ingrained from like living
through two world wars and the depression it was just kind of like this is how things are and she
just sort of was she was mindful of materials in a way that i would say my mom and i are less so
only because we grew up in the post-war world and so there's a kind of disposability that like if
you know if you're sort of not including the environmental movement and the idea of kind of
like reduce reuse recycle but kind of the era before that there is a kind of cavalierness about
you know
tinfoil it's like like there's you know there's always going to be more tinfoil you don't have to
worry about it but there's i think for people in like mfk fisher world if you have been deprived
of things like that you it it changes you in some way yeah and also you know to to get back to
desperation pies like i think the general definition is that they don't have fruit
in them they're right made with shelf staple items usually without dairy or eggs either or
you might have like you know one of those things to make up for like a lack of
fruit or ingredients generally so you also have like the sugar cream pie like something tart yeah
or the vinegar pie which is like using vinegar as a substitute for the kind of tart fruit flavoring
and fruit pies or like for example maybe a rhubarb pie and i think it's like humbling how well these
things work and how easy it is to like not fully trick our taste buds but like a lot of these
really like dirt cheap foods often hit the spot and i think that's kind of the reason why i'm so
the spot in a in a profoundly great way oh absolutely yeah mac and cheese my god i i kind
of what i often perceive on social media is that there's a kind of like authenticity arms race a
little bit and that there's a kind of desire to find like the most obscure the newest the
most authentic the most um highly specific you know restaurant that sort of serves food from
a particular region of cambodia and it's very accurate and they only seat 16 people and yeah
it's going to be a status symbol in like as many ways as there is it can be because you know what's
interesting about food too is that like innovation will unceasingly happen because everyone has to
keep eating something multiple times per day and also it's it's going to take on more symbolic
freight than it can possibly carry because again everyone has to relate to it every day of their
lives and whether they have it or not you're you know if you have it you're thinking about it and
if you don't have it you're thinking about it more right you're thinking about it more exactly
um let me read to you a little bit about pie i love hearing about pie okay so this is from a book
called midwest pie this is from the introduction which is by phoebe mcgray in these early colonial
days pies were practical foods they created their own gravy and could be a complete meal on their
own they also gave bakers an easy way to use odds and ends leftovers and dried produce it was the
perfect culinary standby for yankees who like to think of themselves as thrifty pragmatic and full
of pride and they also gave bakers an easy way to use odds and ends leftovers and dried produce
common sense by the mid-19th century pie had become much more than a practicality it was a
favorite breakfast of ralph waldo emerson and some people ate it three times a day
one british journalist visiting the east coast wrote that quote an unholy appetite for pie
works untold woes in the american public thus cementing the new country's love for pie as a
nationalist snub of the stuffy brits redyard kipling who lived outside brattleboro vermont
between 1892 and 1893 was the first to eat pie in his life and he was the first to eat pie in his
life in 1892 and 1896 somewhat derisively called new england the great pie belt due to the dish's
prominent position in the region as more europeans settled in the midwest they found that local
ingredients like choked cherries persimmons and black walnuts could all be incorporated into pie
at will to make something delicious in 1851 a norwegian immigrant living in beloit wisconsin
penned a letter home that read strawberries raspberries and blackberries thrive here
from these they make a wonderful dish combined with syrup and sugar which is called
the great pie belt due to the dish's prominent position in the region as more europeans settled in
the region as more europeans settled in the region as more europeans settled in the region as more
europeans settled in the region as more europeans settled in the region as more europeans settled in
the region as more europeans settled in the region as more europeans settled in the region
i can tell you that is something that glides easily down your throat they also make the same sort of
pie out of apples or finely ground meat with syrup added and that is really the most superb
by the early 20th century the dessert suffered some from the emergence of the nutritional science
field it turns out that eating pie three times a day might not be the surest path
toward long-term health but americans weren't able to kick their addiction so easily
according to food writer matt siegel a writer for the milwaukee journal sentinel weighed in
on the debate over the national flower by arguing that americans shouldn't be wasting time discussing
plants when pie could easily serve as a national emblem wow that is fascinating and it also kind
of underscores the idea that pie as we know it is very much an american dessert which i forget and
also very utilitarian food and something that historically you could eat at any time of day
which i think is empowering yes i think if your pie window is only after dinner that really decreases
the amount of pie
that you can eat and thereby the amount of pies that you can make whereas if it's a three times a
day food and a snack yeah and i think the basic mechanics of a pie we're in kind of sandwich
territory here there's something really universal about it but yeah the idea of um it being i think
based on this argument too or this presentation of history may be a typically american food because
it's so versatile it can be adapted you can put any ingredient in there or you can put nothing
in there you have the famous water pie which is a very famous food and it's a very popular food
and i think that's one of the reasons why it's so popular and i think it's one of the reasons why
you pour in water and then add in your ingredients which is like flour and some sugar and mix it
together and you bake it and it makes a custard and yet it seems like you just baked water in a
crust right you know these like magic trick desserts that seem to have nothing in them
that seems to define american food more than abundance and yet i think like as you're talking
about the 60s it feels like we also have these phases of reaction against past desperation when
we're like what you're talking about the 60s and you're talking about the 60s and you're talking
No, no one here has ever been hungry. We're eating food from every country that has ever been.
And part of that also, don't forget, is cult war propaganda. Like there were the two. Do you know
about the American and Soviet exhibitions that happened in New York and Moscow in 1959? The one
in Moscow was the site of the kitchen debate and the one in New York had like a Soviet fashion show
and kind of a typical Soviet kitchen. I bet you told me a little bit about this before, but tell
us. Yeah. And so essentially, like a big piece of this was like sports, you know, each side trying
to position their way of life as a kind of triumph of their system. And both countries were, God
knows, the Soviet Union certainly was, you know, very well acquainted with famine. So there's a
kind of an emphasis on the American side of sort of what all this technology can do for you as an
individual housewife. And the Soviet design, the Soviet exhibition was much more geared
towards the American side. And so, you know, there's a kind of an emphasis on the American
side of sort of what all this technology can do for you as an individual housewife. And the
sort of what our system can do for society. Like it was kind of so that it was sort of competing
visions of abundance that had different political ends. Yeah. Yeah. And I think it's revealing kind
of what we see food as being for. And certainly as American individualists, we will use it as a
marker of class identity a lot of the time as well. I mean, what do you think of my conclusions
here? I guess that my argument maybe is that American food is fundamentally defined by
inventiveness and desperation. And also that we keep sort of like going through the same cycles
and not really being aware because of course, now everyone's trying to stretch meat again.
And we're sort of, I don't know, falling into these historical cycles where
nothing is really that new. But that also is what makes it fun and what makes it able to
connect us with people throughout history who have also been trying to feed themselves and
their families.
A hundred percent. And I would add to that, that food is politically charged at every turn.
Oh God. Yeah. Especially lately.
Lately. So we've got all the like cuckoo, all this like Maha ridiculousness. So we've got the
beef tallow people. We've got, you know, that's, that's now. And before that it was, you know,
fat is terrible, but carbs are great. And now I guess fat is great, but carbs are terrible,
or I don't know what, what cycle we're in. And, you know, or it's the civil war or world war one,
or it's the invention of breakfast cereal and the idea that like exercise and pressed grains are
good for you. And, you know, all sorts of different theories about what people should be eating and
the food pyramid. So there's, it's kind of like the government and society at large will sort of
not leave anybody alone when it comes to food, but it's also food famously and understandably
is not something that you can do alone. Like it's to feed this many people, it, you know,
8 billion in the world. And I don't know, it's like 340 million.
In the U S I think it must be a group effort on some level. And, you know, this kind of,
I think it's, it gets all sort of balled up with like ideas of gender and strength and sort of
beauty and, you know, all that stuff interpreted differently in different eras. And so nowadays,
I think there's, there's a way in which like, I'm old enough to remember in the nineties,
when everybody was focused on fat, that something like, you know, pasta primavera,
pasta and vegetables would be considered like the perfect thing for a woman to eat. And now that
would be considered, you know, in kind of like trendy food world would be considered decadent
because pasta is carcinogenic.
carbs and it's you know yeah we just kind of keep going back in these loops we keep going into kind
of there's different versions of what it means and not to get too far into like the more extreme
ends of what's going on today but like i do find the carnivore diet thing so fascinating
and disturbing and one of the things i always come back to is this idea that like well ancient
man was eating all this butter and it's like we wouldn't have butter if we hadn't had agriculture
and like domesticated and created like the cow as we know it and like where was all this butter
coming from that ancient man was supposed to be eating and i realized that that's not really the
point it's just like creating a frame story so people can eat butter because they always wish
that they could i don't know you can just you can eat butter you can just eat butter and it doesn't
have to be a philosophy it's not you can just like you can just eat it and that's also kind of like
like protein creep like there's kind of a scope creep happening with like protein creeps
yeah
protein is now well that really is like one of the huge food trends of today and i haven't
researched this so i'm not gonna like yeah opine too much but it but it is like it's something that
you know things become trends for many reasons but i think partly this seems like very convenient
for like the dairy and meat industry which are becoming uh you know too expensive and who
can maybe hold hands with some people who are active in conservative politics who can say
right and meanwhile just you know you could also
try and get enough fiber and it's interesting how also in this like push for protein where we're
putting protein in water now i'm seeing very little advertising for lentils where is big lentil
lentils have i think an equal amount of protein and fiber oh ton no they're like like incredible
yeah show me big lentil they're so small that big lentil would only be medium
yeah i mean it kind of there is a strange way in which this it reminds me a little bit of
display i think you can see you can see images of it if not actual film footage of norman belgetti's
design for um it was actually the original futurama that was at the 1939 world's fair
and this was basically a kind of future occupied by this huge system of highways and it was sponsored
by general motors so it's kind of like it's this idea that kind of like we're imagining they could
have imagined a
sponsor free you know all buses and trains future or all sort of public transportation but no and so
it's kind of and i think there's a way in which sometimes if we're like if we're not looking
critically at who's paying for something it can feel like oh this is a cool idea like the future
is going to be this particular kind of convenience and everybody's going to love it yeah and we're
going to take away these forms of labor nobody needs the bus exactly and then of course now we're
in the like trad wife era of you and as you and i have talked about in the past and something that i
think we see like throughout the history of homemaking technology is that it then becomes
a flex to like take on more raise your standards like cakes as we know them today would like
refined flour and a very kind of like smooth and fluffy texture have only been with us since the
19th century when flower technology improved enough and there's always going to be an arms
race of the american housewife or of the american woman and this idea that you need to
keep perfecting yourself as the technology gets more advanced in a way and i will just say for
anyone who needs to hear it do less do less always do less you know just like if you don't enjoy
doing it then see if you can get out of doing it that is a great rule of thumb for so many things
and of course there are some things that we need to do but there's like a lot else that
gets drilled into us as something we need to do and then you think about it you're like
i don't need to be doing this and possibly no one does it used to be normal to iron your sheets or
at least not unheard of and can you imagine i used to do that i used to iron my pillowcases
this is something i used to do i mean look if i were really avoiding a work thing or an email i
might iron pillowcases but i don't even own an iron so i would have to go buy one yeah speaking
of which have you seen any episodes of the testaments yet no i haven't about this so i did
not realize this was coming and then i just
stumbled upon an ad for it and it is the tv show adaptation of the testaments which is the sequel
to the handmaid's tale so it's based on a novel and it's about like the prep school for for what
for future wives and it captured something so this is something really interesting i'm i kind of like
lost patience with the handmaid's tale eventually i kind of felt like i just went on for too many
seasons and i was tired of like sort of as most tv does unless it goes on for only two seasons
because it's on Netflix
yeah exactly but um there is something that i i'm now realizing margaret atwood
was very prescient in capturing which is that the gilead worldview is on the one hand sort of
evangelical authoritarian and kind of you know extremely normative in terms of gender hierarchy
and it's also like beef tallow people like there's no plastic like because gilead is green
right so because there's this obsession with fertility and i i remember kind of
first encountering that novel at some point you know maybe 20 years ago and thinking oh that's
weird because that those two things never go together and here we are and in 2026 and they
go together you know and here and we made it like she predicted ballerina farm like 40 years
before it happened i always knew margaret atwood had it in her she really did yeah no she's really
impressive yeah yeah and it does feel like this sort of i don't know maybe the conclusion that
i'm coming to talking about food with you and this is just i mean these are just
sort of you know some things that we find interesting it's by no means attempting to
be at all comprehensive but give us enough time we'll get there but i think that what
what i'm seeing in this is that we try to use food to define ourselves and yet it defines us
more and in more ways than we're not aware of at the time than then we can ever write over
you know the things that we're trying to do intentionally and i think that that's kind of
great because it's this this form of history that is there waiting to be understood
and you also get to eat it and what what do you think about i mean and of course everything is
political but just in like i don't know the smaller food trends of today have you are there
any that you're like oh i'm doing a trend so there are times when i've been kind of leaning more into
plant-based stuff like i've kind of gotten as i have matured because of the depression it's because
it's because we're living through the great depression well it's because it's partially
because i'm sort of re-evaluating
my relationship with dairy and i am a i'm like a yogurt freak like if i had one food to eat the
rest of my life like i'm like a yogurt like fanatic and so i've discovered lactose-free
yogurt if you are a person of 40 something experience this may also be for you but and
i kind of i've kind of gotten into like like yogurt fruit smoothies and stuff so i think
i don't like thinking of them as meal substitutes this is more something that i kind of when i want
like a frozen treat i have like a frozen fruit and
lactose-free yogurt smoothie which sounds like desperation food but it's actually great but
that's the thing a lot of us have desperation foods that are just like amazing they're incredibly and
you can put like frozen bananas in it's like almost tropical you know there's endless infinite
variations on it so if you think of like the blender as an organizing principle the same way
that you do a sandwich then like the possibilities are truly endless so it's fruit it's you know you
can do like like a different substrate and so i don't know if i would say that's a true
trend i'm not really like quite cool enough to be on trend i wouldn't i don't know if i would
make videos about these but maybe i should you know i find whenever i feel myself on a trend i
feel a little bit embarrassed because i feel like i'm trying to emulate the cool kids you know but
okay so speaking of yogurt i have this figure this is from an old npr piece so the average
american in the 70s consumed about five pounds of cottage cheese and about two pounds of yogurt
and then those numbers flipped that's so interesting
and in 2010 the average american was eating like two pounds of cottage cheese and do you want to
guess how many pounds of yogurt per year like 10 14 pounds of yogurt per year wow i believe it that's
a lot of that is me that's a lot of that's that data is me and so the and this article is from
2013 yeah i think a lot of that is you yeah you're and you're canceling out some other people but
you know and i don't have have figures for the cottage cheese versus yogurt numbers at present
but cottage cheese
has made a huge comeback because it has protein in it and oh it's so good it's you know god and
it's very good and it's also cheaper than meat but it's also it's just funny to me too that any
that a food can be a trend in a way because it's like it's cottage cheese it's just kind of there
it's waiting for its moment and then the moment comes and passes and it just waits for it to come
back like right share like it's such a kind of basic thing it's like saying that like getting
up in the morning and doing stuff is a trend like it's just like reality it's like have you heard
a new thing about like living life yeah cottage cheese is just this glowing monolith you know
just like yeah we were just waiting to discover it doesn't matter whether you acknowledge it or not
yeah and i also kind of think like you know when you get to a certain age like you like what you
like it is and also just we get to we don't have to justify our taste to anybody you know and that's
a really nice thing too you know who is super into food trends are cats oh or this i don't think they
think of it as a trend i don't think they think of it as a trend i don't think they think of it as
trends, but my experience of cats is, so we have like, so
three different kinds of dry food and two different kinds of wet food because there
are different like health concerns in the in the household and every time you think like oh they
like the one who needs like kidney diet really likes this particular kind so we're going to order
like a multi-pack and save money and time the minute you're like you know month's supply arrives
they don't like it anymore yep the minute that it's like it's excessive it's like oh i had that
i had that's that's that's nobody's doing that anymore which to be fair you know it is the same
food every day but that's like you i think they are more trend aware than i am i would argue
that's who should be driving our trends is the cats the cats yeah yeah that's fair well in
conclusion just you know keep keep your body going and find some joy and whatever tastes good
is probably gonna work out that's what i think you gotta feel good because
like
life is hard enough so you gotta you gotta like feel good and have you know and take care of
yourself and rest and eat good things and just do like do what you think somebody who cares about
you would want you to do uh right yeah and they would want you to have cake totally yeah you have
to have cake sometimes do you what are you cooking next do you have anything on your agenda that
you're going to cook i gotta make that mock apple pie you're gonna do it you're gonna do it do you
want to both make it and compare we should both do it yeah do you feel enticed yeah i
okay let's do it
and that is our episode thank you so much for being here thank you for listening we also have
a new bonus episode for you with the wonderful princess weeks about the case of rhinelander v
rhinelander a sensational trial of 1925 and you can listen to it right now on patreon and apple
plus subscriptions plus i'll see you next time
a lot of other bonuses we've also got a nice show about orcas if you like that kind of thing
thank you to the people who make this show miranda zickler is our producer and editor
nicole ortiz is our administrative assistant thank you to sarah archer for being our guest
you can find her website and links to her books in the show notes plus links to the videos we watched
while we made this episode if you want to make the wacky cake or cockeyed cake as peg bracken calls it
here is the link to the show notes and the show notes in the show notes and the show notes in the
recipe from the i hate to cook book one and a half cups sifted flour three tablespoons cocoa
one teaspoon baking soda one cup sugar one half teaspoon salt five tablespoons cooking oil one
tablespoon vinegar one teaspoon vanilla one cup cold water and good old confectioner sugar frosting
the frosting is two cups of confectioner sugar with a dash of salt
a teaspoon of vanilla and enough cream beaten in to make it spreadable and here's the cake recipe
put your sifted flour back in the sifter add to it cocoa baking soda sugar and salt and sift this
right into a greased cake pan about nine by nine by two inches now you make three grooves or holes
in this dry mixture into one groove pour the oil into the next vinegar into the next the vanilla
now pour the cold water over it all you'll feel like you're making mud pies now but beat it with
a spoon until it's nearly smooth and you can't see the flour bake it at 350 degrees for half an hour
if you make it or any of the treats we mentioned in this episode let us know how it turns out you
can email us at sloppy and alive at gmail.com and we're also taking submissions still for our
listener special for june we're asking you to tell us in about a three minute voice memo what you love
and why you love it we're listening to them through april we are having the best time listening to
everyone that we get and we'll see you in the next episode
and we can't wait to hear yours that's all thank you for listening thank you for being here
we'll see you in two weeks
Podcast Summary
Key Points:
Desperation and convenience in food are intertwined, with historical recipes like mock apple pie and water pie emerging from scarcity during times of rationing.
Wartime food innovations, such as collecting kitchen fats for explosives, demonstrate how scarcity drove creative, resourceful cooking practices.
Mid-century American food culture, especially through cookbooks like *Meals with Foreign Flair*, reflects a staged, aspirational version of global cuisine accessible to middle-class households.
The "desperation pie" tradition—using shelf-stable ingredients like ritz crackers, vinegar, or water—shows how people historically adapted to shortages while still creating satisfying, familiar foods.
The rise of the "kitchen of the future" in 1950s advertising, like Frigidaire’s futuristic kitchen, symbolized the idealization of automation and leisure for the middle class.
Sandwich gardens and international food pavilions at World's Fairs created commodified, standardized versions of foreign foods, blending fantasy with cultural appropriation.
The wacky cake, born during WWII, exemplifies how simple, science-based recipes using pantry staples offered both novelty and a sense of culinary accomplishment.
American food trends are shaped by cycles of scarcity, innovation, and cultural aspiration—revealing how necessity and imagination have always coexisted in food history.
Summary:
The conversation explores how American food trends are deeply rooted in historical scarcity and cultural aspiration. From wartime rationing to mid-century idealizations, food has always responded to economic and societal constraints. Desperation pies, water pies, and wartime fat collection demonstrate how people creatively adapted using available ingredients, turning scarcity into ingenuity.
The rise of mid-century cookbooks like *Meals with Foreign Flair* and futuristic kitchen ads reflects a broader cultural shift where food became a symbol of status, leisure, and global connection. These trends often involved sanitized, standardized versions of foreign cuisine—like the 7-Up Sandwich Gardens—where authenticity was replaced with visual appeal and consumer fantasy. The wacky cake, born in the 1940s, exemplifies how simple, science-based recipes using everyday ingredients offered both novelty and a sense of accomplishment.
Ultimately, the narrative reveals that food is not just sustenance but a mirror of societal values—shaped by necessity, innovation, and the desire to project identity through consumption. Whether through wartime rationing or postwar aspirational cooking, American food history shows a recurring pattern: people invent, adapt, and celebrate when they have few resources, making the most of what is available.
FAQs
Desperation pies are simple, inexpensive desserts made during times of scarcity, such as the Great Depression or wartime. They often use shelf-stable ingredients like ritz crackers, water, vinegar, or sugar, and lack fruit or dairy. These pies originated as practical solutions to stretch food supplies and were widely used when resources were limited.
During World War II, food rationing led to creative solutions like using vegetable oil, collecting bacon grease for explosives, and making substitutes such as vinegar pie or wacky cake. These innovations fostered a culture of frugality and ingenuity that shaped lasting food habits and recipes.
Wacky cake, popularized in the 1940s, is a no-egg, no-dairy chocolate cake made with flour, oil, vinegar, and baking soda. It emerged during wartime when scarcity made traditional baking impractical, and its success highlighted a cultural desire to perform 'magic' with simple pantry ingredients.
The jet age made international travel more accessible for the upper middle class, leading to a fascination with 'foreign food.' This inspired the rise of themed food pavilions, like the 7-Up International Sandwich Gardens, which offered exoticized, stereotypical versions of global cuisines to American consumers.
These cookbooks promoted an aspirational, globalized identity by offering curated, sanitized versions of international dishes. They allowed housewives to signal sophistication and modernity, aligning with the post-war ideal of the educated, worldly home cook.
Kitchen appliances were marketed as tools that freed women from domestic labor, allowing them to pursue leisure activities like tennis or reading. Ads portrayed the 'servantless cook' as a symbol of middle-class independence and modernity.
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