Sahana Kulur, a local architect and travel writer from Chikkamagaluru, presents a rich, multifaceted exploration of her hometown beyond its well-known coffee and tourism image. She highlights the region’s natural beauty, including treks to Mulangiri and Baba Budangiri peaks, each with historical and cultural significance. The episode emphasizes Chikkamagaluru’s unique interfaith temples and traditional Hissala architecture, particularly in places like Belur and Halibut. Travelers are encouraged to spend at least five days to fully experience the area’s depth, with recommendations for trekking, Ayurvedic retreats, and plantation visits during coffee bloom. The local cuisine is a standout—seasonal jackfruit dishes, non-vegetarian specialties like chigali chutney, and traditional snacks are showcased as integral to the experience. Sustainability is a key theme, with advice to obtain permissions for trekking and avoid environmental damage. Nearby attractions like Shingiri, Kalka, and Sharma Degat are suggested for scenic drives and day trips. Souvenirs such as banana chips, Panduranga coffee, and areca leaf products are highlighted as authentic and culturally significant. The episode celebrates Chikkamagaluru as a peaceful, ecologically rich destination offering both adventure and tranquility, ideal for those seeking a meaningful break from urban life.
I V M
Life may be a thing.
The first thing is very important.
The first memory, first love, first heartbreak, first work.
Friends, I am Gopal Dutt.
And this is my first podcast.
The first first time is Gopal Dutt.
The release on IVM Pop.
I will talk to those ticker people
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So come to my YouTube's IVM Pop channel
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Listen to my podcast.
Meet interesting people.
Hello and welcome to a brand new episode of the Massafer Stories
India's Very On Travel Podcast
where each week we share the journey of travelers
in their own words and relive their experiences
with you, Alasnars.
Hey guys, welcome to a brand new episode of the Massafer Stories.
Hope you're all well and keeping safe.
On the podcast today, we have a returning guest,
Sahana Kulur, who has been on the podcast
previously giving us some really popular episodes
that were enjoyed and appreciated.
So let's hop on to the episode and find out
where Sahana has taken us to today.
It feels like everyone's talking about two things right now.
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And are you looking for a crisp talk show
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See you folks.
So with that introduction,
we'd like to welcome back
Sahana Kulur from the blog www.vekwork.com.
Sahana, thank you so much
for being a part of the Masafat Stories again
and welcome to the podcast.
Hi, thank you so much
and it's always good to be back on
Masafat Podcast and I keep listening
to all the other podcasts which have been released recently.
It's a pleasure always.
Thank you, Sahana and for listening to Sahana
for the first time, I would urge you to go
listen to the previous episodes
that Sahana has done with us to brilliant episodes.
One on Bijaapur in Kanataka
as well as another one on the temple town of Madurai.
Both of them wonderful episodes
and Sahana's back to do a hat trick episode
and I think in cricketing terms if I were to say,
you're probably one of the ones
with the quickest hat trick.
I don't know, probably in about a year's time or so,
we're recording for the third time.
So, good Sahana has been and that's how great her episodes have turned out
to be very popular episodes as well.
So, really, really glad and excited to be talking to you again, Sahana.
Just in terms of your intro, I was pretty brief and concise.
But for the first time, Lesna, would you like to share a quick intro, Sahana?
Yes, sure. So, I'm from Bangaloo, Kanataka
and I'm an architect by profession
and I teach history of architecture in an architecture college.
But right now, I'm focusing on my travel though
and I write monthly articles for Dick and Harold.
So, the articles I write for the newspaper
mainly revolves around GITAC products of India
because I'm a huge, huge fan of handicrafts, handlooms made in India.
So, it's some kind of an addiction, you can say,
where I really want to see how the things that I'm buying is made.
So, that's my passion. Right now, I'm working on writing stories
about mainly GITAC products made in India.
Wonderful. We'll definitely make sure to link Sahana's blog
as well as the other work she's been focusing on recently.
So, Sahana, you know the drill you've been here a couple of times already.
We usually try to pick up on a place
and discuss as much as possible about it in terms of things to do,
things to see and the like.
With that in mind, where are you taking us today?
First thing, I'm not biased this time
because many people are going to say,
"Oh, you're talking about your hometown, so you're biased."
So, obviously, you're going to say,
"Go only good things about them, but it is my hometown,
but it's people's favourite also."
So, I'm taking you to Chick-Muglut,
the heart of Western Gods in India.
Wonderful. I mean, always great to hear about places from you either way.
Like we've seen in the past two episodes,
but doubly excited this time,
given that you're also speaking about your hometown,
that we're getting it from the perspective or from the viewpoint of a local.
So, let's jump into the conversation, Sahana,
and tell us for maybe first-time listeners who are also not very familiar
with the place itself.
Can you also give a brief orientation of where this is located?
Sure. So, Chick-Muglut, it's one of the districts in Karnataka.
So, it's probably 350 kilometres from Bangalore,
about 300 kilometres from Mysore.
If you look at the aerial distance between Bangalore,
the port town of Karnataka to Chick-Muglut,
it's hardly actually about 30 kilometres, I guess.
So, there is a huge mountain between the two towns.
So, if you Bangalore, Mysore, Bangalore,
there are some of the famous places where people usually land
when they come to Karnataka or southern India.
So, it's about 300 kilometres from the state-capital Bangalore.
Okay, wonderful.
And in terms of, I think you already mentioned about other places close by,
just getting to Chick-Muglut,
what would you recommend, how one can get there,
and also in terms of an itinerary for somebody planning a visit here.
What would be a suitable size or a suitable length of that memory?
So, the good news is there is no airport.
I'm happy about it, okay?
Because I don't want my hometown mountains to get destroyed to make an airport.
And there is a huge wildlife.
So, the best way would be to get to the nearest railway station,
which is either Kadur or Beirut.
I think they are probably about 1.5 hours from Chick-Muglut main town.
So, if you get to either Kadur or Beirut by train,
it's easy to get to Chick-Muglut by a taxi or a private car.
And there are plenty of buses to many parts of Chick-Muglut.
So, even when I travel from Bangalore to Chick-Muglut,
I take a night bus.
There are sleeper coach buses which you can peacefully go.
So, even from Bangalore, from Bangalore, there are day buses.
From Mysore, there is night bus.
And even from Bangalore, there are plenty of buses.
So, either bus or train would be the best way.
And another good thing is the roads are very nice when you go from Bangalore to Chick-Muglure.
So, first you will cross the highway and then comes the guard section and things.
If people want to really, people who enjoy driving.
So, road trip is also a good option.
Okay, brilliant.
And in terms of the length of the itinerary that you would recommend,
obviously you are local here.
So, you have a good experience about somebody planning on visiting here first time.
What length of an itinerary would you recommend?
Here, it may be an unpopular opinion.
Chick-Muglure is treated as a weekend getaway from most of the people who are around the thing.
But I really feel you should spend at least five days here.
There is so much in terms of hiking and these temples and Chick-Muglure are really not that famous.
So, you can really have the entire temple for your own at times.
And most people stick to the Chick-Muglure town and the resorts nearby.
So, I really suggest you keep at least five days.
I would say one week is wonderful.
But, majorly, especially from banal people consider it as a weekend getaway.
Okay, brilliant.
So, let's dive into the itinerary and find out a little bit more about what different aspects one has to see.
Beyond, usually you tie Chick-Muglure to good weather and coffee plantations.
And probably leave it at that rate.
Like you mentioned, most people come here for the weekend and most people enjoy it in the resorts and then go back.
But I'm really looking forward to finding out about the other very diverse aspects of the world.
an experience, a travel experience that one can have while visiting Chick-ma-Glood and whatever
of the year would you recommend as best to visit? So October to February end would be the best
because the temperatures are really nice like October November is the October to December is the
peak winter but another crazy thing is for example my husband loves to visit Chick-ma-Glood
during the rain. I don't know how come I am being a Chick-ma-Glood and I'm scared of leeches. I hope
people are aware of that insect that gets stuck onto your foot and skin and sucks your blood. So
there they grew plenty during this and August the rain season okay. So if you are a crazy person
like my husband who wants to ride a bike in the rain climb the mountain when it's slippery
then August is your time to end. Another part about August is it's the greenest time of the year
so it's like the play of rain and clouds and the little bit of sunshine so and you constantly hear
the music of peacocks singing during rainy season. Yeah I can tell you your husband is not alone
there's a lot of us who love. Oh my god. Enjoy your trekking in the rain now. Obviously not rain
pouring down like anything but when there's a light drizzle and you get to walk in the greenery
especially the weather is also really nice at that time. The play is an enjoyable experience so
different options for you to check out depending on the time of the year you're visiting as well.
Also just about the name right. I know for us Kannada's and Kannada's speakers
Chikmagloor will easily translate to what that means right but you want to just provide some
yeah inside of the map. Yeah there is a story that say yeah there is a story that says
what we call as Palegara or person who takes care of the town had two daughters so
he gave one part of the town to his elder daughter that became Hiré Magaluru that means
town of elder daughter and the other town which he gave to his younger daughter became Chikmagaluru
that means younger daughters are town so many people confuse Chikmagaluru with Chikmagaluru because
Mangaluru Magaluru sounds same but Mangaluru got its name from Mangala Devi temple it's Mangala
where this is it's Mangaluru so there is a story that says that it belongs to the town of
elder daughter of Palegara or somebody like that. Yeah actually this is the reference I came across as
well and like rightly mentioned people I think even now I see people they confuse Chikmagaluru
right they confuse and pronounce it as they do so don't be surprised but I had the right
pronunciation is Chikmagaluru or the younger daughter is town. Awesome so with that context and
background both geographic orientation plus background historically perspective etc now being
set where you want to stay to take us to like for somebody visiting here for the first time what do
you recommend based out of the experience with? Sure would you would you like to start with the
adventure or just chilling what do you want to start with? Maybe we get started with the adventure
so that we have time to chill after that sound. Sure that sounds perfect actually you need to rest
after hiking. Yeah exactly. In Chikmagaluru it's mainly the mountaineer's region highest peak of
Karnataka which is called as Mulangiri is kind of an emblem of Chikmagaluru so Mulangiri Chikmagaluru
the moment you say Chikmagaluru everybody knows Mulangiri and it's super super famous on the
truckers and hikers around. I would like to take you guys to Mulangiri peak first and when we talk
about hiking or trekking it's not as difficult as probably I would say in my experience it's easier
than hiking in Petra but you just have to be a little cautious and because you will be walking
a lot by the cliff side and there are steps at some places and there are two trails which is one
this called a Sarpadhari trail which is like a serpent and you have to walk a lot and things so
when you reach the peak of Mulangiri it's like you reach the clouds so and you'll see the green
patches there are paddy fields coffee and many many things which is totally green so Mulangiri would
be like my top recommendation and for those who can't walk to an extent you can take your
car and park till a temple and then if you really want to reach the topmost peak you have to
walk the next would be the next famous peak which is Baba Budengiri so there is a very nice
story about it not stories though in fact the fact so a Muslim saying named Baba Budeng
who had gone to Mekha for his pilgrimage he was coming back and he smuggled some of the coffee
beans from a port in Yemen to India and he comes to Chikmaglor so and he comes with the coffee
seats and he plans it in the mountain called as Chandradrona Parvata so I don't know what was his
intention like if he wanted to convert the entire area into coffees or what but thank God he did
so from there the coffee planting cultivation began in India actually it's the first place
where coffee plants grew in India so it's spread like that and during British time the coffee
was taken to Kurg also Mudikiri so in Baba Budengiri is another peak where again you are on the
cloud and there is a beautiful lake called Dalikere which really you never know the lake exists
there okay because especially during October to December it will be covered with clouds and fog
so suddenly opens up so you see a water body then you see the valley so it's something literally
like somebody painted the entire earth green so and in Baba Budengiri there are two temples so
Hindu temple and a Muslim Darga they they're attached to each other they share the common wall
so one is Dattatreya Peter and the other is the Darga of Baba Budeng so both Hindus and Muslims
consider this place as sacred also yeah one of the very popular places right like you mentioned
even from a pilgrimage perspective a lot of pilgrims was at here and I believe 1670 AD is one
is when Baba Budeng did that journey and while returning from his Hajbal pilgrimage he smuggled
those coffee beans but I don't know like one way or the other the origin of coffee in India began
from there and this region right and then around the southern part of India is also one of the highest
coffee producers in India awesome so we've kind of touched upon a couple of interesting hiking trails
now one with one being the highest peak in Kenataka and the other one also having this marker in
terms of being the place where almost coffee came to India from plus the religious significance of it
as well where next to Osana the next one is my husband's favorite and I find it little hard to climb
this foot it's called his Bhallarayanadurga and it's not as famous among all the weekend travelers
as much as they would go to Mulan Giri or Baba Budengiri definitely I'm not saying it's an
offbeat place nobody knows that it's a hidden hidden gem but kind of a hidden gem because
it's a little difficult to climb here so probably it's one of the most beautiful places in
Chikma view it's closer to a place called Mudgiri so this uphill trek takes about three hours
and as you are reaching the top you see the remains of an old fort so there is no
fort or walls or palace kind of a thing but like how you see Hadrian walls across you care right
the there's a long probably three feet height stone wall passes across the mountain so it's
again the valleys and greens and it looks that green and smooth so the shades of greens
that you never know existed you can see here this is my favorite place in Chikma view yeah
I can definitely say it's definitely not an exaggeration and like you mentioned sometimes you wonder
whether so these places really are in India and I'm glad that you got to cover some of these
this place also has been like in the past ruled by the Hoi Salas right so I'm assuming there's
some connection there is probably one of the forts of the Hoi Salas in the past right so
yes definitely definitely yeah possible so where next to
so the next it's pretty famous and I would say it's little crowded so it's a it's a place called
Aetina Bhujah it remains ox so Bhujama in shoulder so it's like ox's shoulder so the peak looks like
that big bump we see on the bush
rules, right? So it looks like that. So it's closer to the famous Charma Degat, the
Gat section. And it got really popular after one of the Canada movies called Laumakta
Hill 2 or 1 I'm not sure. One of the parts got filmed there and people go there like crazy.
And sometimes I really feel that there should be some kind of restriction on how many
number of people can truck. So it's definitely a beautiful place, but remember people are mad
about this place too. Yeah, I'm pretty sure I've seen both part one and part two to go
back and see which one covered this. Awesome. So yeah, a lot of different types of hiking
options too, right? Like we've been touching upon even depending on the time of the year
you go, you may find like a completely different phase of the locale or the region you
was doing perfect. Okay, let's keep going. So the next is Kudremuka. So kudremuka was
known for as like it was the mining town, right? Which got shut. So now it's a ghost town,
but the kudremuka, kudremuka means horse face. So the peak here looks like resembles the
horse face. So when you go from some village called Samsa, you can break this trail. There
are many small lakes, ponds and you go beside Bhadrariva and reach the peak. There are
smaller shrines. People are crazy because kudremuka trek is super famous among people during
grainy season. People love to go on to the top, put a tent when it's pouring. Get up in
the morning, have mag in the rain. So it's a very popular mountain trek. So there are
many companies in Kannada who can take you to the kudremuka peak during rain.
Yeah, definitely. And I'll probably age myself here, but I think it was like almost 30 years
ago that we had done a trip from here. It was a road trip. When I say road trip, not
like a couple of hours or three, four of us traveling, it was like a good group of some
20 people in those temple travelers that we used to have in their day. Everybody from
my cousins to all of us had done a road trip. And I think my uncle, one of my uncles used
to work in Bhadravati. That also has the Vishweshwara and in the steel that used to have
back in the day. We did a trip from there through I think I don't know where we ended up,
we passed through a bunch of places and kudremukas for other stops. That's how long ago
it's been, but yeah, completely, yeah, you had to take me back to those memories.
I used to spend my summers in Kudremuk for about 10 days. My uncle used to live there.
So Kudremuk is so fascinating that when you pass an area called Karekate, then you take
a left home to Kudremuk, the scenery changes totally. And you never know when an Indian
girl or the bison like we call it, they just cross the road like, "Dude, it's my road.
Why are you there?" As a kid, it was the most fascinating thing I ever did with my father.
Like I used to say Hanuman Chaliza and pray to all gods saying that I need to see a bison.
I never saw an elephant, but people do see. But bison are common sites when you are driving
to Kudremuk. And even the town was so well planned. It was, I think, built by French. The
town planning was done by French. And it was so well developed with the hospital, with
the CBS school, and there was a mosque, there was a temple, there was a church. So Kudremuk
was one of the best towns in India, which I really feel sad for that being a ghost town
now. It really breaks my heart.
So, yeah, some good old memories. And I'm glad that we're getting to touch upon that
in the podcast as well. So Kudremuk probably has a bunch of things you could do here too.
And like you imagine, for the other tracks, it can easily be like one iconization around
the different tracks and things you could do in a round Kudremuk. But anything else?
The last, there are many more hiking trails, but I'm going to end it with a place called
Nasimha Parvata, which is near the place Shringeri. So that's my grandparents house, their
house is much more in the remote place near Shringeri. So, it really doesn't make it to everybody's
list, who visits Chick-muggler or Shringeri. But it's a beautiful place. I won't say you
see the Meadows, but you see the Gaj of Agumbe here. So, it's weird how Agumbe is actually
far, but from this moment, it's like I'm almost in Agumbe. So, it's another hiking trail.
You can even camp there if you have permission, you have to have pre-op permission from the
police. And most of the these trekking trails require you to take pre-op permission. One
of the reasons why you need to take is people keep thrashing these places. It really breaks
my heart to see the trail littered with plastic box, kurkure, fruity, and whatnot. And even
sometimes beer bottles too, they do throw that. So, all these places to maintain the
really sanity of the place, sanity of the place, they require you to take permissions to
most of this trail. So, if you really want to set any tent in a simple at the top, you
really have to take permissions from the local authorities.
Good point that you called out as well, and it is really important for especially places
like these that are also, I mean, even otherwise, but especially places like these that are
also like ecological hotspots, right, with all the different flora of fauna. It's really
important that we try and preserve that and not litter and pollute them. So, thank you
so much for covering those, Sahana. And like once we've covered a few of these hiking
or adventure type experiences, what else would you like to recommend, in Chikmoglod?
So, many people who go to Chikmoglod are like, I really don't want to hear anything. I
don't, I want to hear zero noise. I want, I don't want to see anybody. I really want to
be alone. So, and trust me, it's really a good place if you pick a remote place. Probably
the next best thing to do in Chikmoglod is do nothing. So, pick a Koji homestay in the corner
of a forest area remote village. And I remember my grandfather's younger brother used to run
a homestay. Every year, one of the very famous Canadian newspaper editor used to come. He
used to climb on of the, what we call a chapra, the place where they dry are a kind of things.
No, he used to climb there and stay at infinity for probably three to four hours, because
you really don't hear anything in remote villages, probably birds chirping or the dog in the
house or two or three people chatting, that's also. If you really want to hear the silence,
you really can pick a very nice homestay in the remote area and do nothing. Or there are
people who want to do something but not too much. There are a few Ayurvedic Ashrams also.
One of the famous is Panchajanya Ayurvedic Ashram. So, they also conduct yoga retreat and
things like that. People whom I know have gone there and they say that it's really refreshing.
Another one which my and my family take Ayurveda treatment is from, it's called as Ayurveda Ashrama.
It's in a place called Hari Harapra. Hari Harapra is a town located on the banks of Rewartunga.
So, if you want to get any Ayurvedic treatment like Snayhapana, Panchakarma and things like,
you can pick any Ayurvedic Ashrams. There are plenty in Chikma group. So, probably for a week or
five days or two days depending on what you want to do, you can do that and really have a
relaxing, like I'm away from everybody. I'm away from all the noise. I'm just focusing on myself.
So, you can do that in Chikma group. Yeah, for sure. Definitely something to consider as well,
if you want like a true break from especially if you live in a nausea city like Sanah and I have
lived mostly in Bangalore. I think even in terms of other experiences, one can enjoy while,
let's say, putting up in a homestay. Anything in particular you'd like to recommend in terms of
trying out? Actually, another interesting thing about Chikmunglur is, I realise this when I
went to Salzburg. So, Salzburg is I think at 424 or 425 Bitov, altitude and Chikmunglur is at about
1,090. So, the altitude level of Chikmunglur is much higher than Salzburg. So, imagine how
hilly and fertile land, rainfall and it's like on heaven for growing coffee, paper,
cardamom, beaten nuts mainly and partly tea also. So, whenever you go to Chikmunglur,
I really feel visiting any of these plantations and
they're curing centers, no?
It's really part of the experience.
So, and Chikmaglu is full of mansions.
You won't believe it.
I have been to my dad's friends house and all.
Do they have Teeq food furnished,
Teeq food bed, Teeq food door,
which we cannot afford in a valued household.
So, you'll really understand why the culture
of Chikmaglu is that way,
because it's full of estates.
So, there are coffee estates, tea estates.
So, you can go to Teeq factory too.
Then if you go between probably November to February,
you can ask your homestay or resort
owner to take you to any nearby house
where they're actually taking the Brittlenuts
or Arrekanuts out of the tree, dry,
and how they cure everything.
So, Arrekanuts too, Teeq factory and coffee plantation.
So, I would really recommend,
based on the season, you are in Pick One.
And you will be in for trade,
if you visit Chikmaglu during probably January to March.
That's when the coffee flowers bloom, okay?
So, it's really magical.
You see the white flowers, they look like marigold,
but in white.
And there'll be so many bees,
like you can really hear that typical bees buzzing.
And the fragrance is a basic hue.
Maybe people who are sensitive to smell might get a headache,
but it's the most beautiful time in Prabagli
in Malad when coffee bloom.
So, if you're in between December to January,
because I'm giving a huge wind of three months,
because when these coffee flowers bloom depend on the rain.
So, it varies season with every year,
as per the rainfall.
But I would say it's really magical
to visit coffee plantations when they're in full bloom.
And then tea plantations, I would say it's,
well, we don't, Chikmaglu doesn't produce
the greatest tea in India, of course.
But it does exist for those who have never been
to a tea estate.
There are plenty of tea estates that can let you,
inside the factory for a small amount of bees for a group,
and they'll show you around how they make anything.
So the next best thing would be taking plantation tools.
- Yeah, I know this is an audio podcast.
So there's obviously no video element to this
to see how beautiful some of these things are.
But more than that, the senses where you can smell, right?
Be it, like you mentioned, the smell of the coffee
being said, sorry, the coffee flowers,
is they blooming or the spices and the arachnid
and everything.
And estates are just lovely for somebody
who wants to just get away, break away,
and enjoy some peaceful time.
And just enlighten your senses.
I think this is the perfect getaway.
So thank you for covering all of those wonderful experiences
as well in Chikmaglu.
What else would you like to cover?
- So the next is wild animals.
You can spot a lot of wildlife in Chikmaglu.
So if the best way is to go to Badra Wildlife Sanctuary
or Bhagavathi Nature Camp in Kudremuka.
So it's the usual jeep safari where they take you
to places and show you along with the guide.
So it's a safer option.
- Yeah, I mean, for wildlife enthusiasts,
there's definitely some options like Badra Wildlife Sanctuary
and others that Sana mentioned.
And overall too, like you mentioned at the beginning too,
it is a ecological hotspot.
So there is a variety of birds
and animals and insects.
And yeah, the ones who like to go on treks
you'll definitely get on into leeches as well.
That's not going to come as a surprise.
But for somebody wanting to go on safaris and stuff
like that, there's options there too.
And yeah, having covered some of the wildlife/nature
type of experiences, where next to?
- So the next would be my favorite topic, temple architecture.
It's because I've interacted and I teach history.
A beauty of architecture, temple architecture
in Chik Mahogur is, it's not destroyed.
And you don't see colonial trail at all in Chik Mahogur.
So if you think of let's say UT or Shimbla,
where it is hilly, cold and lots of spices grow and things
like that, everywhere British have gone.
But I don't think there exists even one single bungalow
named after the British or something
like that.
There is no traces of British.
And much of the temples, which are here,
are hoisala architecture.
So you have star shaped temples,
usually made up of black soapstone and exquisite carving.
I think everybody knows Belor, halibut, which
is in Hassan district, which is very close to Chik Mahogur.
They got UNESCO World Heritage Tag in 2023.
So those are the two most famous places.
And for sure, they'll be crowded.
So Belor halibut is like every school
will take their kids to Belor halibut for an excursion.
And today I have also been.
So it's kind of crowded, definitely worth.
But there are many temples, like people don't know much about.
For example, Belor, which is near halibut.
Again, it's a similar temple to halibut,
but not with less crowd.
And there is one temple called as Lakshmi Naran temple near Jaugal.
So not many people know about it.
Then another favorite is Amrutheshwara temple in Amruthapura.
It is little far from Chik Mahogur town.
But it's one of the most beautiful temples
where you can't believe that the temple is not
made with machines.
Then there is one more temple in Hirinalur called Malikarchana
temple, which is, again, I think it's a blackish brownstone
temple.
You can keep staring at them for us together.
Yeah, absolutely.
And I think, like you rightly mentioned,
pretty much one of the unique characteristics
of temples of this time in this region, right?
But the Huesala's primarily is the black soapstone
and just the shine they have about them, right?
Architecture wise also, like closer to the other Dravidian
structures you might say.
But the soapstone part of it really makes them stand out.
And I'll just add a subtle plug here.
We did an episode on the Huesala architecture
and the temples in the region, right?
So especially in Kanarkar, be it Hassan or Mysore Oshamoga.
Like all of these places have a bunch of those.
And obviously, they're very low-reliable
to ones that Sana mentioned are the most popular ones.
But there are a bunch of the lesser-known ones
that one should definitely check out.
So we'll link the episode there, like in the show notes too.
So definitely check that out.
Initially, you may only think, OK, Chitmaglor is coffee.
His estate is resorts and having a nice time.
But just in terms of options, there's
so many beat adventure to wildlife to now, when temples
add to the mix.
But when we are doing all of this, Sana,
I'm sure one is also exhausted doing one thing to the other
and will be hungry and will want to check out
something to eat as well.
What would you recommend?
Or what is your experience as a local that one should definitely
try out when visiting Chitmaglor?
So you want vegetarian or non-vegetarian?
I go both ways.
So let's try both of them so that even the listeners can get
a sample of it.
So I'm a vegetarian.
So I'll talk about vegetarian first.
It's my saying by mother, OK?
We mallard people--
Chitmaglor is called as Malena Do region--
will never let even one part of Jackfruit go waste, OK?
So Jackfruit, which is, I think, from April to June, July.
So we eat the flesh of when it's ripe.
Then if it's overripen, we'll make dosa batter of it.
So maybe we make halsanan in dosa, jackfruit dosa, jackfruit
kadbu, we make kind of an idli kind of a thing.
Before it gets ripe, when it's raw,
we make jackfruit chips.
And we make raw jackfruit sambar.
And then we won't let the seeds of jackfruit go waste.
We dry that and make a snack out of that also.
Apart from the outer shell and the little things,
mallard people never let any part of jackfruit go waste.
So Jackfruit is like the king of vegetarians in mallard.
So I'm talking about a seasonal fruit.
Other than that, you will have mir dosa, then idli is obvious.
And akiruti.
That is my favorite.
You may find akiruti in kurg also.
It's a very popularization kurg.
But it's very different from what we prepare in Chikmaglor.
So in kurg, it's just the rice flour
with the sambar kind of a thing they eat.
But here to the rice flour, we add finely chopped cucumber,
dillies, carrot, onions, and many things.
So and we make roti out of it.
That's under those.
Malnath special. Other than that we make many steamed food. I think people must have heard of
something called as 'unjlege' and different types of chutney, coconut chutney, coriander chutney,
onion chutney that goes with all this and we make another rice dish called as 'shavge'. So it's
like long noodles, thin noodles made up of rice which is very tasty. You can make it in the sweet
or spicy, both you can make. So as of now I can think of these many food and of course golly
bhajik. Whenever it's raining it's a mandatory thing in Chikmaguroor household to make bhajis,
made up of chilli or banana and of course with this dish called as golly bhajik.
Yeah absolutely. I was I was telling I was complaining to Sahana when she sent me the list of things
she wants to discuss in terms of food. I think when I checked my email or whatever it was like a
Friday night I was like why did you have to send it to me at this time or why did I have to open it
at the Friday night that like all of these like literally mudwatering dishes that you feel like
you have to go back up now you're after dinner and eat and something just to
fullfill your cravings and remember we are only touching upon the vegetarian side of the
offering. Yeah. So far and you would be surprised at the kinds of non-vegetarian offerings also that
the place has to offer and do you want to touch upon some of those Sahana? Sure so
whenever I was writing about Chikmaguroor I'm like hey do we even have non-vegetarian food? No
I think we are all vegetarians I probably claim okay then I call my friend she's a vocalist
she's a goda then I'm like hey you also eat vegetarian food only right you don't eat anything
non-vegetarian she's like why should I eat vegetarian food I make non-vegetarian food or people do
make non-vegetarian food in Chikmaguroor then she gave me a list and she explained how they make
and I was shocked that Chikmaguroor has so much non-vegetarian food so it's almost like they make
near dosa but they with near dosa they make something called as Bhutai means are so it's a typical type of fish
because Chikmaguroor fish is I mean the fish you get in Chikmaguroor is not sea fish it's not
marine fish so Bhutai bangde and all these most popular the river ones or the pond ones so they make
side dishes for near dosa with these fish and they make kadbu like something like idli
and they make nati koli sir that means the local chicken curry with that and we eat yeah
and then they make shavgiv with mutton curry where we make shavgiv with coconut chutney as vegetarians
then there is a huge variety of local fish that they there are names which I never knew that those
species of fish existed kadi minu halad minu so there is a huge variety of fish items they do like a
curry or with the rice and dosa another thing is having so much of wildlife it's obviously Chikmaguroor
hunting was part of Chikmaguroor culture before which is totally banned now so they used to make
something called as apparently huri momcha okay so there is a made out of wild boar so she says
I mean she she says my friend Megavi she says she misses that because they can't eat it anymore
because hunting for wild boar and all is totally banned out of all the things the most peculiar one
I found and I didn't know people make that is something called as chigali chutney okay so chigali
is red that so people who are really really experienced climb the trees are wearing gunny bags and
all kind of protection over their head dents and legs then they break the nest of this red dance
fry it along with their larva so it's like kind of a tangy chutney apparently which is very very
famous among the political community and also other communities so probably if you I mean I have
heard of I have seen things in Thailand and Japan where they make things like this but chikli
chutney which is made up of red dance is really apparently a popular non-vegetarian cuisine in
Chikmaguroor yeah I mean reminds me of the only other place I have heard of in India is Chatti
is good sahana that place also has red and chutney that is very popular right they sell this in
the markets and it's just fascinating to look at how it's made and actually I was surprised hearing
about this in Chikmaguroor I did not know I thought it was only that part of India that this
like more of the tribal regions and I'm actually very surprised and glad that it's available much
closer to home as well for somebody in South India who we want to try this so yeah a lot a lot of
things and yeah non-vegetarian food of South India like be it here in the coastal areas of Karnataka
or even Tamil Nadu non-vegetarian right it's it doesn't become very it doesn't very obvious people
I don't know for some reason we think that only vegetarian food is very popular and common and I
guess to the most part but non-vegetarian food is it has like cult yeah very popular and has like
a cult following here and amongst South Indians in terms of people who really like and appreciate it
so if you're visiting here do try out some of the options that and she mentioned one more dish which
is called his motte alugide siru so it's like you want to eat meat but you don't have access or
meat is over at home or something or unannounced guests come so it's like potatoes and the
boiled eggs I eat it so I really want to try this and they add seasonal beans to it and make a
gravy out of it so it goes with the akirati and rice also so it's motte alugide siru it's another
very popular thing people eat in chick maglour yeah it's like never ending the listed the variety
especially big eggs or pork or fish or mutton or whatever it is and obviously of the vegetarian
options too so cuisine wise you're definitely covered here you don't have to worry about it too much
just come there with a little bit of an open mind and be ready to experiment and you have
all the options available yeah I know I said this on a Friday night and recording this on a Monday
morning and the feeling still remains the same but you have to go down and eat something now to get
over all of the mouthwatering dishes and the cuisine that Sanna has mentioned and Sanna like we
have pretty extensively covered food aspects of the offerings any places in particular you'd like
to call out like restaurants or smaller places one can try most of the places in chick maglour are
locally run and you ask your homestay people to cook all this but one of the places where
my father loves eating dosa is called as town hotel in chick maglour is that the town canteen
like I keep hearing about the town canteen yeah the masala dosa or the bennedos say from there a lot
wonderful exactly town canteen yeah you pretty much have everything available and
yeah sorry if I kind of derailed your like the thought train in terms of what you wanted to
cover yes it looks like you also want to touch upon places in the vicinity right if you want to make
quick digits from the region yeah but you share some of those now so chick maglour has tunga
and batra river both so in shingiri tunga river flows and near balehanur it's the batra river
so both of them take birth in one of the place called ganga mula in kudremok so batra is known to be
having very corrosive effect on the on its way so there is a place called batra river for
place for batra river rafting somewhere it's it's closer to a place called balehanur it's really
what do you say adrenaline rush I would say so if you're in chick maglour you can start your day
as early as possible hit the river rafting and then come back to balehanur have some breakfast
in the locally place then I would say you had to shingiri that's where I studied and it's one of
the very famous temples one of the temple established by shankaracharya and the unique thing about
this temple is the main temple is not architecturally beautiful but the shiva temple in the same compound
it's truly magical it like how you see those high hoysel architecture temple right so
when you say shingiri the picture that emerges is not the main temple but another temple
in the vicinity if you are staying in shingiri next I would say you can go to the falls nearby like
magebell falls ceremony falls and the hiking trail what I mentioned as impervatha is also
close very close to shingiri so you can plan just two
today is itself in and out of Shringeri.
So that's one place to visit Nia Chikma Group.
Then would be Kalasa and Hornado.
Kalsa has lots of tea estates.
And near Kalsa, there is a place called Kyaatin Maki.
Again, it got over popular because of, I think,
Gali Patat, two movie and also love Mokta.
So it's a very terrible road,
like the bumpy road, my road I have ever seen.
So you have to take a Jeep and reach the top.
It literally looks like Switzerland with the meadows.
So it's the green rolling hills everywhere.
And another place called Spanchamikallu.
It's a Jane bus city.
So you have a small shrine on a giant stone boulder.
And you can sit at the cliff or the edge of the boulder.
And the scenery there is very beautiful.
So you have flat lines of paddy and rice fields all around.
And suddenly, a patch of color appears.
And then again, it goes flat.
So it's like the combination of flat rice fields
and aracatris.
So I would say it's best to be there during the sunset
or sunrise the most beautiful time.
And the next place--
The picture is stunning.
Interject and say the one that you're
sitting at the edge of the cliff and the bus city
or the structure in the back end, right?
And obviously, the hills and the farms and paddy fields,
like I mentioned, in the background.
Now, beautiful place.
And I can already imagine being there for sunrise
and sunset.
So I'm sorry to forget.
Interject, but--
No problem.
The picture is really beautiful.
The other would be, obviously, we
mentioned Beluru and Halabidu nearby,
which is in the Hasan district.
And people who really love driving and are good at driving,
I would say you should take a drive on Sharma Degat.
So in Karada movies, if you remember,
they used to show there are huge clouds.
And Nara, the character, walks on the cloud right,
doing Pajan.
So every time I go to Sharma Degat, I imagine that,
because it's a narrow road with mountains on one side
and huge cliffs on the other side.
So at times, you see the part of Konkan Railway tracks.
You see river.
And then you see valley.
So it's one of the most beautiful tracks.
I think I travel there a lot, at least twice, or twice a year,
not just for the sake of pleasure,
but it's the road to my husband's house.
So every time I go there, I make a video.
And I feel, wow, such a nice place.
I have never gotten bored of Sharma Degat.
Yeah, definitely worth it.
And obviously, the sceneries will keep you occupied.
But make sure you also keep your eye out on the road,
because the bus drivers also have a day out on Sharma Degat
and Shirdi Ghat.
Like whenever you're making that trip to my road,
I always cover across these crazy bus drivers, right,
who are really driving rash.
But yeah, thank you so much for covering all of these wonderful
places, not just in Chick-magnore town in the vicinity,
but also well beyond that for somebody visiting this place
and has time on hand.
They can definitely make some day trips out of here.
And also in terms of things one can shop for or souvenirs
and things one can pick up while in Chick-magnore,
what would you recommend, Sana?
So many people know banana chips from Kerala.
So Chick-magnore is also another banana chips haven't.
And most of the time when I was in college or even now,
the first thing people ask when I come back home
is did you get banana chips?
So the kind of banana they use here is different.
And they mix it with a little bit of chili.
I'm not saying there will be a lot of chili powder.
And they add a pinch of hint to it.
So it's really a thing in Chick-magnore,
especially in Schringeryside, where we do banana chips.
And if you get a chance, there are places where you can actually
see them chopping banana and making.
So you can really do that.
And the next thing would be, I say coffee powder.
Obviously you have to buy coffee powder from Chick-magnore.
And it's filter coffee.
So I have tried making black coffee out of it,
but it didn't come out well.
So you buy a filter and filter coffee powder.
So the most famous one brand is called
is Panduranga Coffee.
So it's available in almost all the shops in Chick-magnore.
So if you're not visiting any coffee curing center or a street,
you can pick up the brand Panduranga Coffee.
And then of course, spices.
India itself is a home for spices.
So pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, turmeric, betel nuts, yeah.
And even what do we call gooseberries?
And there are many oils made up of the herbs which are available.
I don't even know the names of it.
For example, as a kid, we used to use something called
as Matisopu.
I don't know what's it called in English.
So these kind of herbs and spices
are plenty available in Chick-magnore.
So I would say green pepper, cardamom, betel nuts.
So you should grab those.
And if you really want to keep something very--
like a show page in your house, I would say
you should buy highlight of it.
So highlight of it is something made up
of the sheet of Areka leaf after the fruit is taken out.
The leaf sheets they make a hat out of it.
Usually, the farm workers had the use
to get protection from heat, rain, and whenever they're
working, if they fall, it protects them.
It's really kind of a hallmark of Malad region.
And then of course, there are Areka leaf plates.
You do get this in Bangalore and Uttarakhanda and other places.
But as a lot of Areka plantations around,
these are one of the things to buy.
And actually, you can put it for good use.
And if you're there in Chick-magnore during months,
and of course, you have to eat and buy jackfruit chips.
Yeah, wonderful.
A lot of interesting things there.
Be it a little pee or obviously your banana chips.
Very unique and different from the ones
that you get from further down south in Kerala.
So thank you for covering up some of these things
that you can either buy or take a souvenir home
so that you can remember Chick-magnore after a long,
after you've made the trip.
Again, Sana, thank you so much.
It was the light and the pleasure to visit with you
to your home town this time.
And go and explore Chick-magnore beyond the usually spoken
about things like coffee and the states and results
in home states.
We really enjoyed the nature aspect of it, the cultural
and religious and temple architecture aspect of it as well,
as well as the other things you had to share with us.
Looking forward to having you back for a full time, hopefully,
not too far from now.
But thank you so much for being on the podcast and blessing us
and our audience with these wonderful personal experiences,
Sana.
Thank you so much.
Have a nice day.
And it's always a pleasure to be on Mustafa's podcast.
I am also looking forward to being on the podcast again.
A pleasure to have you in the future and anytime that you wish.
Thank you so much, Sana.
I'm looking forward to connecting with you
and following your work again.
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Friends, I'm Gopal Dutt and this is my first podcast.
First first with Gopal Dutt, which will be released on IBM POP.
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First first with Gopal Dutt.
Podcast Summary
Key Points:
Sahana Kulur, an architect and travel writer from Chikkamagaluru, shares her in-depth insights into the region’s cultural, natural, and spiritual experiences.
Chikkamagaluru, often overlooked, is a hidden gem with rich biodiversity, unique temples, and a strong tradition of sustainable and local cuisine.
Key attractions include Mulangiri and Baba Budangiri hills for trekking, with stories of coffee’s origin and interfaith temples adding cultural depth.
The region offers diverse experiences such as wildlife safaris, Ayurvedic retreats, and plantation visits, especially during coffee blooming seasons in December–January.
Local cuisine is vibrant and inclusive, featuring jackfruit-based dishes, unique non-vegetarian items like chigali chutney, and traditional snacks like akiruti and bhutai.
Sustainable tourism is emphasized, with recommendations to obtain permissions for trekking and avoiding littering to preserve ecological integrity.
Nearby destinations like Shingiri, Kalka, and Sharma Degat offer scenic drives and natural beauty, ideal for day trips.
Souvenirs such as banana chips, Panduranga coffee, and areca leaf hats reflect local culture and provide authentic mementos from the region.
Summary:
Sahana Kulur, a local architect and travel writer from Chikkamagaluru, presents a rich, multifaceted exploration of her hometown beyond its well-known coffee and tourism image. She highlights the region’s natural beauty, including treks to Mulangiri and Baba Budangiri peaks, each with historical and cultural significance. The episode emphasizes Chikkamagaluru’s unique interfaith temples and traditional Hissala architecture, particularly in places like Belur and Halibut.
Travelers are encouraged to spend at least five days to fully experience the area’s depth, with recommendations for trekking, Ayurvedic retreats, and plantation visits during coffee bloom. The local cuisine is a standout—seasonal jackfruit dishes, non-vegetarian specialties like chigali chutney, and traditional snacks are showcased as integral to the experience. Sustainability is a key theme, with advice to obtain permissions for trekking and avoid environmental damage.
Nearby attractions like Shingiri, Kalka, and Sharma Degat are suggested for scenic drives and day trips. Souvenirs such as banana chips, Panduranga coffee, and areca leaf products are highlighted as authentic and culturally significant. The episode celebrates Chikkamagaluru as a peaceful, ecologically rich destination offering both adventure and tranquility, ideal for those seeking a meaningful break from urban life.
FAQs
Chikmagaluru is known for its scenic hill stations, rich temple architecture, hiking trails, wildlife sanctuaries, and unique local cuisine like jackfruit-based dishes and fish curries.
The nearest railway stations are Kadur or Beirut, around 1.5 hours away. Buses and sleeper coaches from Bangalore and Mysore are also available, with road trips being a scenic option.
October to February is ideal for pleasant weather, while August offers a green, rainy season experience with lush landscapes and peacock songs, though leeches are a concern.
Top trails include Mulangiri (the highest peak), Baba Budangiri (with a sacred lake and temples), Bhallalayanadurga (a lesser-known, scenic peak), and Kudremukha (famous for its rain trekking).
Yes, many temples are built with black soapstone and feature Hoysala architecture, such as the Belur and Halibut temples, which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and known for exquisite carvings.
Must-try dishes include jackfruit dosa, jackfruit chips, akiruti (a local roti), and non-vegetarian items like bhutai (fish), mutton curry, and chigali chutney made from red ants.
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