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BTL: Laurent Delaunay vs Pinot Noir

45m 40s

BTL: Laurent Delaunay vs Pinot Noir

In this episode of "Behind the Label," host Laurent blind tastes three Pinot Noir wines with guest Laurent de l'One, a prominent Burgundy winemaker. Laurent de l'One recounts his family's 132-year wine legacy, including the sale of the de l'One winery in the 1990s and its repurchase in 2017. He describes his journey from starting over in the Languedoc with his wife Catherine to founding the successful Le Jamel brand and now working with his daughter. During the blind tasting, Laurent evaluates the wines' color, acidity, and texture, noting that the first wine seems too warm for Burgundy, suggesting it may not be from the region. He also shares his work as president of the Burgundy Wine Committee, focusing on collective promotion and research to tackle climate change. The episode includes a game where Laurent selects wines for various occasions, such as Solar for harvest and Le Jamel rouge ozé for barbecues. Currently in Hong Kong, he is launching an auction with Bonhams to establish price references for his reestablished brand, aiming to attract collectors and wine lovers. The tasting concludes with Laurent praising the second wine's floral and fruity notes, highlighting the importance of humility and pleasure in wine evaluation.

Transcription

6840 Words, 36351 Characters

English
Hi everyone, first happy new year and welcome to this new episode of the Wine Maker Show. So for this new year, we have a new format, it's called Behind the Label and the goal is simple, is that I taste wine blindly with a guest. And the first guest for this new format is Laonde de l'One. You may already know Laonde de l'One because it was on the podcast a few years ago. It was in French at that time, so for our English listener, it will be the first time you listen to him. He is the owner of the Donnet Group in Burgundy. He is also super well known for making Le Jamel with Catrin his wife. And he is now also working with the daughter Jan. He will talk about all that in this episode. He will talk about his vision of Burgundy and a lot of other things. We had a very nice moment around the few glasses of wine to make sure we have a nice discussion together. So I hope you will enjoy this show. If you want to really enjoy it as a full version, you should go to YouTube because this format was originally made for YouTube. You will see a nice moment of the esteem. That being said, you will also enjoy it as a podcast. We thought it would be very nice to make it available as a podcast for you guys. So here is our episode of Behind the Label with Laonde de l'One. Have a nice moment, see you soon. Hi everyone, welcome to this first episode of Behind the Label. Thank you very much for being here. Today I'm sitting with Laonde de l'One. Hi, Long. How are you? I'm good. Thank you very much. I know you're a pleasure. You landed just yesterday in Angon. It's kind of a first event or a different event that you have right after your plane. So I know it can be a bit exhausting, but we'll make sure that this is a good moment for you as well. So Behind the Label is a new format that we have where we blind taste wines with our guests. And so the idea is to enjoy these wines, talk about them and talk also about your life, about what matters right now for you in the wine industry. That being said, let me try to introduce you and you'll tell me if I'm wrong. So you are Laonde de l'One, you are the CEO president of de l'One, which is an amazing wine group. You have a personal experience that goes back a few dozen years now. So it was a family house at the beginning, but when you became a CEO, you realized that there were terrible problems inside of this house. So you were basically forced to sell it and to go to the source of friends, start back and you actually really started back some people describe you as a phoenix in the wine industry because you created a legion with your wife and from that it was a massive success. You came back to Burgundy and now a few years ago you even took back the name de l'One, which was part of the things that you sold back then. Am I right? You're absolutely right. It was a very short summary of almost 35 years of work. Actually, yes, the de l'One family has been involved in wine in Burgundy for now 132 years. It's my great-grandfather Edward, who started in the wine business in 1893. Then there were the following generations and I joined my father in the early 90s and exactly as you said, soon after having joined my father, we realized that there were some problems. Actually, mostly family and medical problems with my father and it was in the early 90s. It was a very difficult economic time, strong recession. At that time, Burgundy wines were very sensible to the economic situation and I was not even 25 years old. I did the best I could, but after two or three years in 1993, I realized that we were too small, we were not enough financed and we had to sell the family winery to a bigger group. We became part of a group and I worked a little with them, but it was not really what I wanted to do in my life. I was a wine maker, graduated from the University of Dijon, where I met with my wife, Catherine, who is also a nanologue, a wine maker. The two of us, we wanted to make our own wines, have our own freedom of creating our own wines and so on and being part of a bigger group, it was no longer possible. So we resigned, we stopped and we moved to another region, the south of France, the Longuedoc, which was at the time just an open-coming region. We started from scratch in the Longuedoc with no vineyards, nothing, but actually surprisingly, it worked pretty well. We created your right legionale, the right of wines from the south of France in 1995. We were very lucky because it became pretty successful and that's what made it possible for us after some years to come back to Berlin and to a long time later, 24 years later, to close the circle because in 2017, so it's only eight years ago, I was able to buy back the Edward Lone, so our family winery and it came back to our family. Wonderful, thank you very much, long for these proceedings. So today, in behind the labels, we are tasting three different wines. There are all three Pinot Noir, which was that because we thought it would be a good clue. It's already a very good clue, but we thought it would be a nice approach since you're from Burgundy and it's one of the two main great-by-eachies of Burgundy, so we thought it would be nice. One of them is yours, but we don't know which, two of them. So there is one I chose, so I know what it is, but honestly, I never tasted it, so I don't have that many tours. And we do all this with the help of mine, behind the screen, behind the cameras, who like mixed everything, so I have no idea which is which. Maybe we can start by tasting the first, and at the end of this episode, we're going to try to guess where those all these come from and within the bottle of together. It's always a blank testing, it's always a very difficult exercise. Absolutely. And it's for me, it's an exercise of humility. You have to be humble because you make a lot of mistakes. For me, it's an exercise of pleasure. Absolutely. I'm happy to discover this one. Ches Laurent, to this first one. On to Anna. It's first of all, it's very interesting to have a look to the colors. The three of them, they have beautiful Pinot Noir colors. It's really ruby red, and I love this color. And three years ago, I had COVID, and I lost my nose during a few months. Actually, I worked with somebody called Jacques-Irigo, and Jacques-Irigo developed a new way of testing wine, which is called the geosensory wine testing, where you pay attention not to the nose, not to the smells, but to the site, what you see, and also to the test more. And so it allowed me to develop, probably a little bit more, the geosensory, others than just the smell. Yeah, like the touch, texture, that's the thing. So now I find it very helpful. So you have an advantage, compared to me because this is something I have not developed enough. I'm still very academic in my testing, so it's a bit different. Beautiful Pinot Noir flavors. It's a wine with a lot of finesse and elegance. Very interesting. I have no idea of what it is. I just can tell that it's definitely Pinot Noir. I really can find the main signature of Pinot Noir. Beautiful acidity. But also I feel some ripeness. I feel a little of alcohol. The wine is very round and rich in the mouth. I don't think it's really for me. No, for me it's not burgundy. It's a bit too warm to be burgundy. You can really feel that. And for me you even feel a little bit of spices. Or I know how to say in English, but a little bit of rice. I feel that a little bit as well. Maybe it comes also. I think there is a touch of barrel aging and the liquorice can come from the barrel aging. Yes, but there is a great spiciness. We were talking before about spices and pepper and so on. I find yes, some black and gray pepper. This would go marvelously well with a nice steak. Yes, so even even with some duc, Beijing duc, Beijing duc, it would go very well. - Very well, I did. So, why are you in Hong Kong right now? - So, first of all, I come to Asia three or four times a year. It's a very important, Asia in general is a very important market for us. I think for me, it's one of the markets of the future and there is a great job to be done, to bring more education, especially when it comes to Bergen de Wines, because Bergen de Wines are very cultural wines. And I always love to come to visit the market, to speak about the wines, to meet with the sommeliers, the wine lovers and so on. So, I do that often. Hong Kong, one sort twice a year, minimum. But the reason why I came especially here this time, it's because we are starting now and for the next three weeks, some of our wines, for the first time ever, are going to be sold on auction, online and physically in Hong Kong by the auction house, Badams. That's something we decided to do, which is very important. You know, we relaunched. So, the Edward O'Neigh Winery that I bought back in 17, our first vintage was 17, but the time to have the 17 vintage ready after aging and so on, we started to sell our first wines when we came back in 2000, end of 2019, early 2020, so it's only five years ago. And my goal, of course, is to reestablish Edward O'Neigh in the, how can I say, in the elite of Bergen de? And I think that for that, there are different steps. One of the first steps, you have, of course, to have some distribution and to convince some importers and distributors to take your wines. You have to work also with the critics and the journalists and the wine testers, especially when you are new or when you are back to the market, because we are back to the market. It's a little like if it was launching a new winery. So, we submitted a lot of wines to the critics, the sommeliers, to the wine writers and so on. And Edward O'Neigh, by the way, is probably the winery, which had the most ratings and the ID rated wines in the last years in Bergen de. We had seven hundred ratings over 90 points in the last five years, which is absolutely unique in Bergen de. Is it because you. It's because. Yes, we did not hesitate. It was even a strategy to really show our wines to everybody, because you know, wineries, which have been here for ten generations and generations, the reputation was built over decades and years and so on. For us, as we had totally disappeared from the market, we have to catch up all the delay that we accumulated. And so, yes, we were very active in submitting our wines, but we are also very lucky, because obviously it seems that our wines have pleased the testers and the critics. And one of the steps, I think, now is also to show to wine collectors that Edward O'Neigh can be an option, that there can be a value for Edward O'Neigh wines, and it's important to settle the price reference. We are just at the beginning of the development and the construction of the reputation and of the brand. And for people, for wine collectors who buy some wines to collect, but I think wine is a great item to be collected, but also to be enjoyed. The great thing with wine is that as wine collectors, you can purchase a few cases. You can drink some wines for your pleasure, but you know that if you want to change, if you want to buy something else, you can resell on the market. And generally, you do that on auctions. But for auctions, you need to have some reference prices. And that's what we want to settle with this auction with Bon Ams, so that's the reason why I'm here. And this auction is just starting now for the next three weeks. And with Bon Ams, with the team of Bon Ams, we are going to have a lot of testings and dinners in the next days to show the wines, to introduce the wines to their best clients, who could be interested in our wines. And so for this auction, you must choose all the advantages, I guess, or your. So it's not very old integers. It's as we relaunched Edward Lone, with the 2017 vintage. From the beginning, I decided not to put on the market all our wines every year. I decided to keep a part of the wines in our private wine library in our private cellar. And to be kept between 10 and 20% of the production of the best wines every year, we've the goal to release them a little later when they would be a little more ready to drink. So actually, what we are going to show is most of the advantages between 2017 and 2021. So still already with a kind of history. Yes, but starting ability. Starting just to show well for wine lovers. A little more rightness and maturity now. Thank you for that, Lone. Maybe we move on to the game. So we have prepared the game right now. The goal is simple, is that we have selected a few wines that are related to you. And the name of the game is "Which wine would you choose?" So I don't know if you guys see the computer we have here, but anyway, it should be on screen right now. So the game is pretty simple. We've selected eight wines that are related to you. And you must choose in different situations which wine would you choose. So without further ado, these are the eight wines we've selected for this game. So for you guys, it's on screen and let me check the first situation. So which wine would you choose to celebrate the end of the harvest? Hmm. I think I would choose the one which is called "Solar". Solar, it's a Pinot Noir which is coming from our own vineyards in the Longodoc, the main de la Meterie d'Alons, which is a domain on the state of 25 hectares, Pinot Noir's and Chardonnays in Lima, on the foothills of the Pyrenees, altitude vineyards from it's in the Longodoc, but that's altitude vineyards and that's the place of the Longodoc where the climate is cooler and with more humidity because we are on the foothills of the Pyrenees. And I am really in love with, especially with this Cuvé, which is one of our vineyards, it's a special terroir. And especially now, it's my daughter, Jean, who joins us and who is in charge of this vineyard for two years now. And what she's doing, her first vintage was 2023. I think she's really improving the quality of the wines. There is a great potential. And I love these wines and you said, celebrate the end of the harvest. So normally, you celebrate the end of the harvest in September October. And it's a perfect wine for autumn, for fall, because there is a nice depth, nice richness, there is a kind of earthiness in this wine, which makes me feel about that specific season. Which wine would you choose for a romantic dinner? Probably, that's a difficult choice. Probably the champagne, Maurice Gromier, which is a beautiful indepenant wine groueur from Champagne, who we distribute on the market. We help him with his distribution. But the chardonnay, La Belangère, is also a solution, because it's a kind of romantic, easy to drink, vando France, coming mostly from the south of France, and Tats-Sobrand, that we created with Catherine, my wife. And this range of wines is named after La Belangère, who was a kind of actor. She was a character from the beginning of the 20th century. And she was the muse of some impressionist painters such as Gougan, and she was a very romantic person. So for a romantic dinner, maybe that's why. For a barbecue party. I would choose probably the rouge au zé, the rouge au zé, Légamel. So Légamel is our main brand created in the south of France with Catherine, my wife. And the rouge au zé, it's a new trend. It's a new trend. It's light red wines, made with a lot of similarities with rose wines. The goal with the light red wines is to have red wines that you can drink, immediately out of the fridge chilled exactly as you do with rose wines. It's very light in terms of texture, in terms of structure. But with a lot of perfumes, it's really like a lot of candy perfumes. And it goes perfectly with a simple food like barbecue. Yeah, we really enjoyed it last summer. It was really nice. For a quiet evening, along with a lone. Maybe the Légamel minimalist, because when you're alone, you want to pay more attention to your wellbeing and to your health and the relational minimalist. It's the one which is made without any additives, without any sulfite, specifically for people who have allergies and so on, but when you want to have a quite evening and short, not have any headache in the following morning, it could be a good choice. To pair with a pizza. Oh, that's more difficult because you've already already mentioned a lot. Maybe domain-daison, which is, is it Pix-Saint-au? The appellation, I don't remember exactly. So it's coming from the long dock. Nice, typically long dock wines with nice spiciness, nice texture, kind of sucrosity, which can go very well with pizza, which is definitely a mediturner and dish. Close to the region. Absolutely. And that's it. Thank you. Thank you very much. So I did not mention the Nuit Saint-Gorge in order to know. I thought that you were keeping it for exactly for the end, but unfortunately there was not any occasion right now for it, but for any good dinner, Nuit Saint-Gorge is always a nice choice. Let's move on to what you're doing right now at BIVD, but before that we need to taste the second wine. I almost forget it. So let's try this one. Very similar in the color. It's all three hours. Yes, absolutely. I am done. This one is a bit more deep, but this is difficult for me. So you said that there is one of my wines among the others. I don't know which one it is. Definitely it was not the first one. This one I'm hesitating. Especially I'm hesitating because we are afternoon after just had a coffee. So I know that when I have a coffee immediately after I feel a little bit more the acidity of the wine, here there is a very nice acidity. This one is very nice texture as well. There is something interesting in the mouth, in the pairing of the acidity and the tenanes. It's less warm and less, there is less and cold than the previous one. In terms of flavor we don't have the spices that we had before. It's way more of the fruit and floral as well. As the males. It's very on the rose flower. And you know I don't point at what is the name, but the rose bushes, the rose trees, they are kind of fruit and it smells exactly like the fruit of the rose tree. I don't have enough rose tree around me so I can't say this right now, but I would try to find some at the flower market. Just before tasting this wine, I was telling that you're now president of BIVB. So it's the burgundy organization of wine growers. We have recently changed the name and now we are called the Comité Borgania. Comité Borgan, the burgundy wine committee. So when were you elected president? Almost four years ago, three and a half years ago, I was elected president for four years. So I'm just arriving to the end. The end of your first term. Of my first term, I can apply for a second one and I have decided recently to apply. So four more years. If everything goes well, I have to go through the election now. Four more years as the American would say. So what are the progay teams of Comité Borgania? Comité Borgania. First of all, as you said, it's a general professional association organization, which is gathering all the burgundy producers. In burgundy, burgundy is a large region. It's small at the global scale, but it's pretty large geographically, from Shablin, the North, to Macon in the South. It's about 250 kilometers. And we have about 4,000 producers in burgundy. That's a lot. A lot of small producers. And the role of the BIVB is to do collectively all what cannot be done individually at the level of each estate and each domain. And we do most these three different things. Promotion and marketing, developing the image of burgundy wine sort of over the world, by wine testings, education and so on. We do more and more and that's the most important research and development, bringing the burgundy producers some solutions, technical solutions to the challenges that they are facing in the vineyards and in the sellers. And with the climate change and climate disruption, we have more and more challenges. And so the growers ask us, they tell us, we have that problem. This rootstock, for instance, is not giving good results in the vineyards. We have more and more problems with the eat and the droughts in the vineyards. So we try to find some technical solutions for them. That's the most important. And the last responsibility is more what I would call economic intelligence. It's bringing all the producers as many information as possible about the markets. The local market, what we call the primary market. A lot of wine growers are sitting there, grapes or there, wines, two local negotiations. And so, for instance, we every month, we publish the rates, the prices, the average prices and all the transactions. We follow all the transactions. We are able to tell exactly how much stock is left and so on. But also some market studies, market surveys, for instance, bringing them some information about the Chinese market. How is it developing for burgundy wines, statistics and what is the structure of the market? How can you, when you are a burgundy producer, how do you calculate your prices for the Chinese market or for, I don't know, the American market and things like that. So that's the streamlined activities. How you integrate with customs also, I guess. Exactly. All that type of things. Exactly. One of them, so you mentioned climate change and trying to find solutions. So, I guess there are solutions in the vineyards adaptation that type of things. One of the thing you're also talking a lot about is Utkut. So it's a new, new tier wars for burgundy. Can you tell us, can you tell us, sorry, a bit more about Utkut? Utkut is very important for me. It's first of all, I would like to say that I'm totally convinced that we'll, with time, but everything takes a lot of time in viticulture. Vity culture, it's a very long term. Burgundy is a thousand years old. Absolutely. But with time, I am absolutely convinced that we are going to find some solutions to adapt to the climate change. But it doesn't prevent us to explore some new tier wars. And of course, when you think about warming, you think that maybe you should go further north and it's going to be cooler. But actually, if you go further north, you don't know what you're going to find in terms of terroirs. We are very lucky in Burgundy because as Burgundy is a long stripe going from the north to the south. So it's east facing on the west part of the Kut, the new Kut, the bone, Kut, trellon-esque, myconnese on. Everywhere in Burgundy, you can find some hills, which are on average, about 150 meters higher. And that's what we call the Utkut. And you have Utkut, the new on top of the Kut, the new, you have Utkut, the bone on top of the Kut, the bone. And there are always mean some vineyards in the Utkut. But before the global warming up to 30 years ago, the conditions were a little too extreme. Actually, that's very interesting because when you look at it on a very long time, on centuries, the average temperature has always varied from 1 to 1.5 degrees. And 1 to 1.5 degrees, it makes a difference of wines that have a lot of difficulties to ripen, or wines that are on the contrary showing very well. In the early middle age, up to the 13th, 14th century, the Utkut were producing wines that were considered as good as the Kut, the new and Kut, the bone wines. And then from about the 14th century, the temperature changed. We entered into what we call the mini ice age. And the temperature dropped by about 1 to 1.5 degrees. And the conditions became too difficult. And actually, Utkut was only devoted to ordinary wines, to entry-level wines until about 1950, 1960. And it's only in the last 30, 40 years that with the warming, conditions became good enough in the Utkut. And now it seems that nowadays, we are in 2025, the conditions are becoming better and better in the Utkut. One of the other interesting things in the Utkut is that not everything is planted. When you go in the Kut, the bone, 99% of the land is planted. In theotcot we have a lot of forest, we have a lot of different crops and so on, but only about 50% of the classified land are planted now, so we can develop theotcot. So it's one of the rare places of Burgundy where conditions are improving, they are becoming better and better, and we also can expand a little. So a lot of people think that theotcot are probably the future of Burgundy and we are seeing and we are going to see more and more outcote wines coming and for me, for my generation, my family is originating from theotcots, so I know very well the outcote de nuit, exploring this region, trying to find the best terwars and the terwars which I don't know, in 30, 50 years from now can become, can compete with the best terwars of theotcote de nuit. It's a very interesting and fascinating job. Yeah, and it's kind of moving after the monks trying to pursue what they were doing in Burgundy. Exactly. Exactly. What the monks did in the middle age, in Cote de nuit and Cote de Bodne, we have to do this exploration now and we have to do exactly the same, find the best terwars, verify them apart from the rest to see if you have to hear, with consistency, they are different and they show some interesting character and also that's what we call in Burgundy, the prima approach. Of course knowing that prima in Burgundy does not mean climate, but it means terwar. Let's move on to the third wine of today, the last and the answer. I love the color, which is a beautiful but a little deeper. Yeah, this one is a bit deeper, it's a bit more deeper, the granite will be, I think, in French. So a bit more discreet, a bit more, a bit less exuberant than the first one, definitely. A little, a little more closed, you're right on the nose, but beautiful mouth, very elegant, very long, great acidity at the same time. I feel maybe a little bit of airball as well on this one, close to what Cabernet-Francoo show in some sort of. Yes, you're right, there is a little green character at the end of the mouth mostly. But there is a great tan in and it's obviously a very young wine, which is according to me showing a lot of potential. Absolutely, but I love the character, there is a strong personality, it's a wine with a lot of identity. Yeah, I agree. And in the terwar, in the climate that we were talking about just before we saw the type of wine. A little diolcologist as well. It's pretty bright. All right, so finally, long, so you mentioned it when I showed you the different wines in the games that we did. You know, have your daughter working with you? It's been a few years. Two years. Two years, so how is it going? It's going very well. Because it's going very well, I must say that it's very rewarding to have your children working with you, especially for us. We have only one child, one daughter, Jan. She is now 27. She has studied business and wine making, physical share. She was very lucky because she had the opportunity to do a lot of internships. She worked six months at Domand de la Romana Contille. She worked one year with a table, a legia belaire in New-East Anger, she worked in Australia, she worked in California. And she finally decided to join us. For the time being, she is in charge of our aunt Winerin, the longer dog, producing the solar wine that we saw before. And for me, it's very rewarding, especially for us because as you know, it's something which is pretty usual in burgundy, in wine families to have generation coming after generation. It was the case in my family until my generation. But with the fact that we have sold the family winery, I mean, nothing was showing that it would come back to our family. And having now Jan, my daughter, joining us, once again, I see now the future continuing in the next generations. So it's very rewarding, I think, in the wine industry, we have a special relationship with time. Time is a very important factor. Everything takes a lot of time. When you produce a wine, you hedge it in barrels during sometimes twenty months, twenty four months, then you bottle it, then you have to wait until it's ready. You can keep it a very long time. When you plant a new vineyard, especially in a region like burgundy, it's not for yourself. It's for your children, your great children. Sometimes your grand-grandchildren, you plant vineyards for fifty years, eight years. And we inherited what planted our ancestors, of all the traditions they have developed. So we are always thinking about very, very long term. So for my family, seeing that it's probably going to continue over the next generations, it's very rewarding. And so now you can't have any dinner or family lunch without the full team being gathered with your wife and daughter working with them. Yes, yes, yes. We are all wine lovers. My two girls, Catherine, my wife and Jan, are fantastic wine testers. And she's a video wine lover. She became friends with a lot of young producers and winemakers from her generation. She's very open-minded. And every time we have a lunch or dinner, we make very interesting testing experiences and so on. Amazing. And we definitely love about Saint-Doronet and Soler, that we talked about before, is definitely an amazing one. Thank you very much for all this long before continuing and revealing those wines. I obviously need to thank a few percent. First thing, I want to thank you for being the first guest to come on the very own out. Thank you, Antoine. Thank you for being the guinea pig of this new show. I would like to thank Wine Up and David in China. They provided one of the wines that we have here. And I also want to thank Le Syden, it's the place where we are recording. You can see that this is pretty nice. It's definitely an amazing place for wine lovers in Hong Kong. So if you are in Hong Kong and want to taste good wines, you know where to come. They have an amazing selection. Maybe they are just missing some Dora Neu wines. I don't know. We've discussed that. But you're in this because that's after. So with that said, thanks again to everyone in the comments in the description if you want to check this out. So do you have any idea of what we have? So for the people looking at this show, we have glasses number one, two, three, and mine as the bottles behind. Maybe let's try to find your wine. And then we'll discuss about this. So do you have any idea of which one is yours? I think so, but I'm not sure because it's always a trap. You can always make some mistakes. I would say it's the number two, the one in the middle. And I think it's a new Saint George. And especially, that's the one for me, which is developing the most flavorous. It has the most intensity, aromatic intensity on the nose. And in the mouth, the mouth is well integrated with a nice freshness and acidity. Like everything is well balanced and especially, it's coming from Burgundy. So it's a northern wine producing region and alcohol is not too high. And so that's my guess, I'm not sure, we'd see. And the two of us are, I think they are two very well-made pinonnoirs for me, Dharma, New World, no idea where they come from. There may be one, maybe I'm sure I'm going to be wrong. But I was in California three weeks ago and I tested some fantastic pinonnoirs, especially in the Sonomadade, Russian River, and some. And number one is pretty close to what I tested. But yeah, for me, I agree that the wine number two is also your wine, if I have to choose. For me, the main reason is more the texture that we have in Marxville. We talked about alcohol, but the balance between a acidity and everything, it really looks like Burgundy. There is something very silky. Yeah, exactly. Fresh, good acidity, but very silky. Yeah, exactly. And something that we recognize a bit less in the two others, then honestly, I know the wines that we have chosen, so I'm a bit more at the end. in this game, we'll try for the next episode that I don't know anything because I could probably tell you which one is which one is very curious. But it would be kind of a shame. So we bet on number two being your wine and the two others are going to be the three wines are now going to be revealed, which is going to be called Oralia. Alright, so we are back in the show and we are joined with Oralia with definitely an amazing wine tester and the owner here of Cilen wine bar in Hong Kong. So we've already presented the Cilen and talked and tell everyone that the Cilen is an amazing place for wine lovers. Oralia, you are today the judge of this tasting, you're revealing the wines to us. So maybe I let you go for the first one. Thank you Antoine, it's a great pleasure to be here with you and thanks for trusting Cilen to us this interview with Edward. So we've known the name from Edward. But I'm used to it. So the first one obviously is we will know that we are talking about Pinot Noir, right? Yeah. So the first one is not a Pinot Noir from Europe, it's a Pinot Noir from Asia, from China. So can you hear from it to all the the reveal? So 2019. I'm going to let you. So it's a Pinot Noir base in the base in Habe, so it's just in the southwest of Beijing and it's for me it's one of the amazing states in China. There's also a Tom Prenierio that is absolutely amazing. They have a Reesling as well, made in China and it's really nice. It's very impressive and that's the one I said that was probably coming from California. So I was totally wrong. As usual. If you want to check the wines, everything will be obviously in description of this podcast. It's a 2019 vintage and for me it was still the beginning for this wine, even though it's still a bit. It's still very young. You're right. Yeah, it's still very young. But it's. I'm really amazed, but what is happening for terroir wines in China? And I had the opportunity to participate to a few testings both in France and in China. And there is the the rays of terroir wines in China is really amazing. Yeah, yeah. What's happening is really great. We're trying to do a few things about Chinese wine so we'll put the link anywhere now on screen. Let's go for the second wine. So wine number two is the one that Laurent is very familiar with because it's like Edward de Lone, is a nuisse d'un george village 2022. So that's the one we found. We were right. Exactly. So we were right. So we are sure. So we have a three dinner. We can have three dinner at Dai Patong this evening. That's perfect. But yeah, thank you very much for bringing this wine. It's really a pleasure and especially in nuisse d'un george. It's the village where my family is originating. So I have a special appeal for nuisse d'un george. It's a very interesting terroir with a lot of diversity from the north to the south and so on. And featuring the wines of nuisse d'un george is really something that we love to do. It's always really cool to go spend a few days in nuisse d'un george and have amazing moments there. Let's go for the third one. The third one is the wine from where we are staying in Europe. So it's the Pinroir from Italy from the north part of Italy. A region called Old Trepo Pavese, located in the south part of Milan. And it's worth a pillandvoire for the first time it was introduced in Italy in the 17th century. What is the vintage? And it's like 2000, I think it's 20, to the 19th as well. 2019. It's a single vineyard from this state called Cordero San Giorgio. Cordero San Giorgio is a new project from the Cordero family, the exoner of Vieti. Okay. And this is like the new project that they set up after selling the winery to a big American company. But the Pinroir and Chardonnay's Burgundy wine slovers and we have a lot of friendship with the Pinroir. Oh, they are. And they are so, it's a very nice, very nice Chardonnay and they started to produce methodoclassico. Which is like the champagne method in Italy and Old Trepo was like the the birthplace of, so I'm not so surprised because we found a little more structure, acidity and tanin. And this is very typical from this region. So amazing work once again by the team of Taster here today. It was an amazing moment. Thank you very much for watching this show. Thank you very much Long for being here. Thank you to you Antoine. It was amazing to have us. Thank you very much for welcoming us at Le Silen. Once again, all the links are in description. See you soon in behind the label. Take care.

Podcast Summary

Key Points:

  1. The podcast introduces a new format called "Behind the Label," where the host blind tastes wines with a guest.
  2. The guest is Laurent de l'One, owner of the Donnet Group in Burgundy, known for creating the successful Le Jamel brand with his wife Catherine.
  3. Laurent shares his family history
  4. The blind tasting includes three Pinot Noir wines, one of which is Laurent's, focusing on sensory evaluation and humility in wine tasting.
  5. Laurent discusses his role as president of the Burgundy Wine Committee (Comité Bourgogne), emphasizing promotion, marketing, and research to address climate challenges.
  6. He is in Hong Kong for an auction of his wines, aiming to reestablish the de l'One brand among Burgundy's elite.
  7. A game called "Which wine would you choose?" pairs wines with occasions, such as Solar for harvest celebrations and Le Jamel rouge ozé for barbecues.

Summary:

In this episode of "Behind the Label," host Laurent blind tastes three Pinot Noir wines with guest Laurent de l'One, a prominent Burgundy winemaker. Laurent de l'One recounts his family's 132-year wine legacy, including the sale of the de l'One winery in the 1990s and its repurchase in 2017. He describes his journey from starting over in the Languedoc with his wife Catherine to founding the successful Le Jamel brand and now working with his daughter.

During the blind tasting, Laurent evaluates the wines' color, acidity, and texture, noting that the first wine seems too warm for Burgundy, suggesting it may not be from the region. He also shares his work as president of the Burgundy Wine Committee, focusing on collective promotion and research to tackle climate change. The episode includes a game where Laurent selects wines for various occasions, such as Solar for harvest and Le Jamel rouge ozé for barbecues.

Currently in Hong Kong, he is launching an auction with Bonhams to establish price references for his reestablished brand, aiming to attract collectors and wine lovers. The tasting concludes with Laurent praising the second wine's floral and fruity notes, highlighting the importance of humility and pleasure in wine evaluation.

FAQs

It's a blind wine tasting show where the host tastes wines with a guest and discusses their life and the wine industry.

He is the owner of the Donnet Group in Burgundy, known for making Le Jamel with his wife Catherine. He sold his family winery in the 1990s, started over in the south of France, and later bought it back in 2017.

It's a method developed by Jacques-Irigo that focuses on sight and taste rather than smell, which Laonde developed after losing his sense of smell from COVID.

He is there to launch an auction of his wines with Bonhams, aiming to establish price references and reintroduce Edward O'Neigh to collectors.

He chose 'Solar,' a Pinot Noir from his vineyards in the Languedoc, because it has depth and earthiness suited for autumn.

It's a professional association for Burgundy producers that handles collective tasks like promotion, marketing, and research and development to address challenges like climate change.

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